Curious question about Washington Ice

[carolyn]

We are pretty lucky here in the midwest to have fairly short/easy approaches (for the most part) and obviously no avalanche danger. And yes, we even have a number of multipitch climbs! (although, we probly have you beat with the cold temps! )

Just wondering what the majority of climbs are like out there....are they usually long approaches? often have some avalanche danger? are there many roadside climbs? Long drive from the seattle area?

some of the recent pics have made me curious...

One of these days I'll post some pics of what we have out here if people are interested in seeing them.

[Jason_Martin]

Carolyn,

Most of the approaches are quite long. There are a few routes that are roadside. It seems that the climbs that are closest to the road require the crossing of a river or frozen reservoir and that those not close to the road require quite a bit of fortitude when it comes to winter travel. There are a lot of routes... But there are not a lot of people willing to work for them.

The nearest area with ice from Seattle is Snoqualmie Pass. However, one has to watch conditions closely to have a good day in this area.

Small groups of climbers have been climbing hard ice in Washington State for nearly three decades. However, only recently has there been interest by larger groups of climbers in "back-yard ice." Some are quite pleased by what they have found... Others are not.

There is tons of ice in Washington. One just has to be vigilant and watch the weather. Everything comes in sooner or later.

Jason

[DPS]

Carloyn,

Wawterfall ice is merely a footnote in the story of Washington climbing. There are a lot of people sniffing around for water ice and finding it, albeit with long approaches often facilitated by snow mobiles. I would never recommend coming to Washington to climb waterfall ice, it is simply too fickle. The real deal in Washington is alpine ice which is far more ubiquitious and reliable.

[Alex]

I guess I would just add that in addition to what Jason says, WA ice is typically steep, thin, and inconsistent. It can also be quite brittle/fragile, due to our mild climate. Ice in Wa is typically formed by snowmelt over a cliff, but we get alot more snow, and a lot milder temps, making the climbs much more susceptible to rain/warm temps, and burial by snowfall.

So in general I would characterize the ice climbing in this state as generally more technical and more serious, compared to a similar grade in the Canadian Rockies. WI4 in Banff are generally safer and less technical than typical WI4 routes in Washington. WI5 routes in Banff usually form with much more ice, while remaining sustained; WI5 in WA is usually more dependent on conditions to climb safely. But there are many exceptions. In a good year, the WI4, 5 and 6 routes out at Banks Lake and in Tumwater can rival the size and quality of any climb in the Rockies. The concentration of ice at Strobach in a good year rivals any of the best areas in North America (but the approach doesnt).

Ice in Washington tends to be steep and narrow, not many of these wide benign flows like the Junkyards, Balfour Wall, Bow Falls, Weeping Wall, or Cascade Pass in the ADKs or Lake Whilloughby in VT.

I dont think WA will ever become a destination for ice climbers like Banff or Lillooet, but should you ever find yourself out here mid-winter, there sure is plenty of ice to climb!

Alex

[sobo]

Well said, Alex and Jason. Carolyn: what they said.

[layton]

quote:

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but should you ever find yourself out here mid-winter, there sure is plenty of ice to climb!

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Really?!?! (Cough-bullshit-Cough Cough)

Go to the Canadian Rockies or Colorado.Hey, how far is it to Banff from you Carolyn? It should be reasonable, eh.

[Alex]

Michael, I had that attitude the first 5 years I lived here, and missed out on a hella lot of ice climbing. There's more than enough to go around if you want it.

But Banff trips arent to be missed either!

Alex

[carolyn]

Hey thanks.Ive been considering moving out to Washington in about a year...which is why I asked. HA! Most people want to know about economy, government, employment...and here I am asking about the ice!

(priorities, eh?!?!)

Michael-Banff is just about the same driving distance as washington. We have an abundance great ice with a lot of variety here in the northern- most part of the Midwest, so I wont complain at all!

Sounds like if you search for the ice you will find it out there...which really is part of the adventure!

Thanks again, carolyn