La Spa VERSUS Scarpa::Advice-Sizing Questions

[AOK]

I had a pair of Testerossas I gave up for the new Futura from La Sportiva. Although the "no edge" technology was hard to get used to in the beginning, I have come to like the shoes even more then my Muiras and Solutions combined. (But not my Testerossas FYI)

 

However, these shoes are super SENSITIVE and I've noticed they climb well outside but are going to wear down super quickly...

 

That being said, I am in search of a good shoe for mostly outside climbing. I want to take both pairs with me while I'm climbing (sport and bouldering)- the Futura for moderate pitches, and an all out attack boot for the steeper and more aggressive terrain.

 

How does the Testerossa compare to the boostic from Scarpa? Being as how I've climbed in La Sportiva for awhile and have owned a pair, I am reluctant to buy something from Scarpa. But I have heard wonderful things...

 

There aren't any local stores that carry the Scarpa so I need sizing help as well...

 

I am a 10.5-11 US mens street shoe. I wear a size 42 or US mens size 9 in my current boot-the La Sportiva Futura.

 

Thanks for any advice and sizing information. Peace.

 

**Also considering the Evolv Shaman as well... Thank you!

[Jens]

Does one throw away the Futuras after going through the first sole? (about 3 months for me, and about one month if you are a Smith local).

 

I can't imagine anyone trying to resole that design successfully.

[RuMR]

Hey Jens,

 

I sent Drew's futuras to Ramuta. He'd blown threw the "wrap down" toe piece. I'll let you know what John comes up with. I figure worst case is he gets a nice solution minus the downturn.

 

To the original poster, i find that scarpa sizes directly to sportiva. Ie. i wear a 36.5 in sportiva and scarpa.

 

Also, scarpa's current shoe designer designed the sportiva models...so, they should be about the same, and well, Vibram supplies both brands their rubber...

[Blake]

I'm always 1 or 2 sizes smaller in Sportiva than in Scarpa (IE Mythos or Miuras in a 39 = Vapors or Boostics in a 41)

[AOK]

Thanks guys... My housemate and friend works at Next Adventure and I found out earlier today they are going to have them in stock in a matter of days-I've heard they're AMAZING from both pro-climbers and gear heads at the shop. Not to mention, Rock and Ice gave them a 5 0f 5 stars for this years new boots. Woot!