Gilles Posted February 4, 2002 Posted February 4, 2002 - Seton Lake climbs: only Fishin' Musician in, but wet and melting fast. P1 WI4 good ice, P2 WI4 rotten ice, P3 WI2+ showery with hole at the top, P4 WI5 short pillar good ice although a bit chandeliered.The other climbs are in for their upper halves, but the lower halves are verglas at most.Beautiful green lake, astonishing setting, better than Louise Falls!- Deep Throat: not in, the first 2 pillars forming the first pitch are hollow and barely bound to the rock. Wading is cold.- Tres Brule: First pitch not in. We climbed to the base of the pillar, it is half a foot wide and chandeliered. Lots of ice falling down. Red Wall Wanderers, on the other side of the canyon, looked blue and fat from there though... We saw:- Carlsberg: people were on it, far from being fat though.- Rambles: 10 cars parked on Sunday ;-) Gilles Quote
Dru Posted February 4, 2002 Posted February 4, 2002 Hope/Thompson: Sailor Bar, Jackass, Kanaka Column, Crucible - all have big wet holes and are not in. Hope WAS in on Thursday but is now quickly falling apart. Goldpan climbs - Energizer and After The Gold Rush are in. (ATGR is a 3 not the 3+ it was last year). The pillar on Happy Boy is touching down but really wet and chandeliered. Take scuba gear and an aqualung. Bridge: the same as last week. New Leash on Life is a bit thicker but still has open water. Hell Creek not in. Top pillar on Silk degrees touching down, bottom not touching and looking thin. Someone climbed Old Dogs, judging by the broken icicles, but it looks thin and scary as a lead. Texas Cr: Texas 2 step in, very thin and wet. Take a file and some tie-offs for stubbies. We also did (according to Lyle) the FA of a 30m WI2+ up a chimney to finish in a cave under a chockstone, right above the road at the 1km mark. "Lone Star", the "Cherry Ice" of Texas Creek. Quote
CascadeClimber Posted February 4, 2002 Posted February 4, 2002 Climbed Synchronicity on Saturday. Nice. No rock climbing necessary. A little wet and slushy on the last long pitch. The finishing "Ice Hose" is in. We also climbed the short pitch up in the woods. Discovered that a plow has been on the Phair Creek road, but only as far as where the gate used to be (if I remember correctly). Looks like the climbs in there will only be accessible to those willing to ski/snowshoe or by snowmobile Climbed the top two pitches of Icy BC early Sunday before the crowds. Found them both very brittle. Led the second, started to lead the third and backed off. Lots more ice on the third that two weeks ago, making it steeper and more sustained. Tried to take the shortcut from Marble to Oregon Jack. No way. Stopped 10k short by an unplowed road. Drove around just in time to miss the crowds. What gives with the path that crosses the fence? Is it cool to use? Very nice route in good condition. I thought it was harder than anything on Synchronicity, despite the 3+ rating. A TR and some pics are up on my site. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 4, 2002 Posted February 4, 2002 You can use the path. When we climbed it about 3 weeks ago there was a window in the ice where you could see the running water We planted out tools precariously... And placed our pro wisely. Still almost fell through the ice before the first belay tree... Nice settling sound is great. Nothing like the whole thing moving underneath you. [ 02-04-2002: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote
CascadeClimber Posted February 4, 2002 Posted February 4, 2002 Almost forgot: Thanks to whomever put up the yellow handline at the Cayoosh crossing on Saturday. It made climbing off the rock onto the 'bridge' much easier! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 4, 2002 Posted February 4, 2002 The Jack looks a lot friendlier this past weekend than it did when we were up there. Nice photos of Synchronicislurpee. Quote
Lambone Posted February 5, 2002 Posted February 5, 2002 1000 baby! Nice TR Loren, glad you had a good trip! Syncro looks much healthier than when we did it in early Jan., O.J. as well. One thing on approaches, if you head up river(Cayoosh) about 100 yrds or so it is much wider and shallower, about waist deep. This may be better if you want to use the hip waders. We did it in the buck Second, it seemed pretty clear to me that the land owner by O.J. doesn't want people crossing his land (the big signs saying NO Tresspassing!). We walked up the road to the top of the mini ridge /hill and cut across under the rock band. This avoids climbing over the fence, and being in veiw of the Ranch (it still may be his property, but at least it is not so obvious). This approach is totaly mellow, and any climber who cuts the field directly across to the route is just a lazy asshole... Anyway, have fun! [ 02-04-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 14, 2002 Posted February 14, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Second, it seemed pretty clear to me that the land owner by O.J. doesn't want people crossing his land (the big signs saying NO Tresspassing!). We walked up the road to the top of the mini ridge /hill and cut across under the rock band. This avoids climbing over the fence, and being in veiw of the Ranch (it still may be his property, but at least it is not so obvious). This approach is totaly mellow, and any climber who cuts the field directly across to the route is just a lazy asshole...Anyway, have fun! [ 02-04-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ] Not if you go with little William. Quote
Dru Posted February 14, 2002 Posted February 14, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Not if you go with little William. Little William is not only a serious entrepreneur, he knows who lost booty on the route and where it is Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 14, 2002 Posted February 14, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: Little William is not only a serious entrepreneur, he knows who lost booty on the route and where it is Twas not me! Quote
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