for your enjoyment

[rat]

a few "new" routes in the leavenworth area. route names, ratings, and first ascent info are based solely on my arrogance. remember, i am "a dumbshit, loser, and poseur." these routes should be forming but i haven't checked them lately.

Hidden Lake (routes located in w1/2 sec26 t27n r16e):approach by driving the south shore road along lake wenatchee to its end. park at the camp zanika parking area (end of the plowed county road) and hike/ski/snowshoe to glacierview campground. hike up the usfs trail to hidden lake. from the west end of the lake(2267' elev.), make your way upslope to "the flats" (about 2900' elev.). "this too shall pass", "timequake", and the two brushier unclimbed lines inbetween are visible from "the flats". "my ten years on automatic pilot" and "last rite" are out of sight to the left.

this is a 3+ mile approach with about 1600' elevation gain. skis would be useful on the road/trail but you'll likely want snowshoes above the lake.

all routes can be scoped on clear days from the north shore road just prior to the lake wenatchee ranger station. the cliff itself is quite brushy but the routes are worth the effort. the area gets little/no sunlight and once the climbs form, they stick around ("last rite" was climbed in early march when it was about 70 degrees in seattle). this also means that you may fight snow-covered ice earlier in the winter. avalanche danger exists on/above the routes and can exist on the steep descent slopes.

routes are described from climber's right to left. no photos, sorry.

1. "this too shall pass": 1 long or 2 short WI3-4 pitches up a left facing corner on the far right side of the cliffs. it may be possible to continue up lower angle brushy ice for a little ways. descend by walking right into the trees and down the large avalanche path that forms the right side of the climbing area. (fa(?): rat. 1997)2. unclimbed(?) line of brushy ice.3. another unclimbed(?) line of brushy ice.4. "timequake": 4-5 pitches of ice up to WI3+ separated by short snow slopes. 2-3 pitches of WI2-3 lead to 2 nice pitches up WI3+ pillars. descend by rapping/downclimbing or traversing left to one of the next two climbs. (fa(?): b. gaines, rat. 1/11/01)5. "last rite": this beautiful 150' WI5 pillar is just right of the second pitch of "my ten years...". we climbed "timequake" to below the final pitch and traversed left and down to the first pitch of "my ten years...". you can also reach the pillar by traversing left and down from the top of "timequake". descend as for the next climb. (fa(?): m. gunlogson, rat. 3/7/01)6. "my ten years on automatic pilot": first climbed by taking "timequake" to the first WI3+ pitch then traversing left to a long WI2 pitch that leads to the snow slope below "last rite". "my ten years..." takes the beautiful 130' WI4 pillar to the left. descend by rapping the pillar or walking down to the left. rap off trees to get to the bottom of the first pitch then make your way down through steep trees and hidden cliffs (may need one short rap) to the start of "timequake". (fa(?): rat. 1/15/01)

that's my story and i'm sticking to it.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Those routes may have had previous ascents. They are not publicized for access reasons. Good work.

[rat]

while the routes may have been climbed before, there are no access issues. the approach and routes lie on u.s. forest service land.

[Smoker]

remember, i am "a dumbshit, loser, and poseur."

While I have never met you and know nothing about you at all I will keep the above in mind.

Oh, and thanks for the Ice deets! I'll be sure to check them out.

Smoker