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shaoleung

Icicle Crack Circuit

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back before they invented 'the icicle', Castle Rock was all we had...and the Pinnacles. I'm still puzzled why my climbing friends always want to head up the icicle before we've climbed Castle out.

 

I got spanked on Careno this last weekend because I hadn't put in my spring training on Castle. Castle has it all, from multipitch 5.3 up to yosemite style 5.9 offwidths and chimneys (Damnation).

 

And when you get really good, meaning you've cruised all the Castle nines, you can start in on the 10's. Can you say "Brass Balls?"

 

Merica on the top of pitch 3, regular route, Careno Crag:

IMG_0843.jpg

 

 

 

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I think we should take Shaoleung's list and do a rando style race for climbers, complete with spandex pants and super lightweight carabiners. the winning pair gets a pint of Lokal Lager at the Icicle Brewery.

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^^ I'm in no shape to do this right now, but damn that would be fun.

 

I'm thinking it ought to be an annual cc.com event...

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Why's Careno not on the 5.10 and under list? You could hammer out a nice variety of ~14 pitches with Careno Corners, Bale-Kramer, and the Regular route, good stuff from 5.7-10b even if the pitches are a little short. A few other good ones in the area too.

 

Good call... This list may have to be a three day adventure...

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I think we should take Shaoleung's list and do a rando style race for climbers, complete with spandex pants and super lightweight carabiners. the winning pair gets a pint of Lokal Lager at the Icicle Brewery.

 

Sweet! I'll wear spandex for beer!

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back before they invented 'the icicle', Castle Rock was all we had...and the Pinnacles. I'm still puzzled why my climbing friends always want to head up the icicle before we've climbed Castle out.

 

I got spanked on Careno this last weekend because I hadn't put in my spring training on Castle. Castle has it all, from multipitch 5.3 up to yosemite style 5.9 offwidths and chimneys (Damnation).

 

And when you get really good, meaning you've cruised all the Castle nines, you can start in on the 10's. Can you say "Brass Balls?"

 

I agree... but there's something to be said for spreading the love. There are some pretty distinct differences in rock and style between all these climbs.

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If you just want to maximize your mellow crack pitches, I'd go for the OS-Orbit linkup, followed by the backside descent off snow creek wall, which will bring you to the base of the pearly gates where you can do 6-10 more pitches in that range.

 

That will let you end up somewhere in the 15-20 pitch range but not much more hiking than doing outer space alone.

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There are some pretty distinct differences in rock and style between all these climbs.

 

The Icicle seems to offer more straight up crack and slab climbing while Castle Rock seems to be re-metamorphosed or something making for sometimes more thoughtful climbing and route finding. Also the grades at CR seem to be more old skool than the Icicle.

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Speaking of rastle cock, I didn't see The Bone on that list. But I didn't look very hard.

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So I spent a half day on Castle today. Catapult, Angel, Damnation. Is that half way through the list?

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