Thoughts on Arc'teryx Alpha SL Jacket ?

[BrandonHarr]

Looking to upgrade my shell (currently have a Precip) and was looking at the Arc'teryx Alpha SL Jacket. Would be using it for climbing Baker/Rainier and such. What's everyone's opinion on it?

 

 

[Water]

i have never heard good stuff about paclite but maybe it has changed over a few years. It is light but I consider it the red-headed stepchild of brand-name w/b laminates. If options are available I'd choose performance shell, pro shell, eVent, or polartec neowhatever over paclite.

 

You're on track to upgrade from a precip which can be fine in the summer or nicer spring days, but the DWR on them goes quick and they're kind of a cheapo-get the job done just 'ok'-shell. I had one for a number of years.

 

Not sure if you have a line on a great price or something but anything from Arc'teryx is generally needlessly more $$$ in my opinion. Though often well made with a stand-up warranty department, so it isn't entirely money for naught.

 

For just basic snow climbing in all seasons I'd say go with what fits and has the features you like. Are you planning on throwing a puffy under it or over it? Dane (I think) had some interesting blog posts on that.. Pit zips are ++. I have an eVent jacket I generally love that pans it is so breathable it doesn't need pitzips. I beg to differ, even some softshells damn well need them when you're moving hard pitzips are the best way to quickly dump heat. But they add weight. If money is no object turn your gaze upon westcomb, they make a great range of shells in different weights and combos with pitzips/or not. Really even if it meets basic needs and you're having trouble choosing between a few, go with your favorite color.

[G-spotter]

If you are looking for a hardshell that you plan to carry in your pack rather than wear most of the time, the Alpha SL is a good choice. That's what I got mine for and it's good for that. Light, packs well, quite waterproof when I actually put it on. If you are looking for a shell you plan to actually wear most of the time you are on the mountain, you might want to get something else - like a softshell.

[BrandonHarr]

Thanks for the input guys. Already have a Marmot Vertical for my soft shell so really after something that can live in my pack for when it gets real windy and wet. Pit-Zips are a definite feature I'm after and I have still a good REI dividend to use as well as the 20% coupon so the price doesn't scare me too much.

[Theodore]

FWIW, I just grabbed one from Moosejaw for a pretty good discount if you want to buy new. If not, there is a good one in the yard sale!

 

http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Arcteryx-Men-s-Alpha-SL-Jacket_10042713_10208_10000001_-1_

[John Frieh]

If options are available I'd choose performance shell, pro shell, eVent, or polartec NeoShell over paclite.

 

+1

[BrandonHarr]

I think that in trying to keep in my price range and still being able to take advantage of my deal at REI the patagonia pioulet is looking pretty nice as well. Just wondering if the extra 12 ounces or so is going to be that more worth it.

[Water]

Brandon,

 

If this is going to live in your pack, I don't think the EXTRA 12oz is worth getting something other than paclite. The Paclite will work. It just doesn't breath well and isn't as durable is what I've read at a wide range of places on the net. FWIW my first main climbing partner had a basic paclite jacket (no pit zips) that did the job for him in all conditions from backpacking to climbing in 5 degrees in december to being in the sun in june on south sister.. and all between, he never complained a bit. so, take it with a grain of salt as far as the poo-poo on paclite. contrary to millions of dollars of marketing, if you are very physically active in any hard shell or almost any softshell, you will feel hot, will sweat, and will feel moist/clammy. same goes for backpacks that keep that gap of space and put mesh on your back instead of the backpad-it aint any magical air conditioner. Significant improvements over a fully poly/rubber rain coat. Relatively minor hair

 

One thing to consider... with your REI dividend..not sure your financial setup but you can get that money back as cash in July. I know it can be easy to focus on using the dividend and 20% to get the 'item i most need' from REI.. but their selection is often pretty weeded over w/ the sale/dividend and such. I guess something to weigh if you have the financial liberty to look elsewhere.

Edited April 8, 2012 by Water