Gunsight East Face

[shaoleung]

Has anyone heard any recent beta on Gunsight East Face? There is a brief trip report about rockfall from 2001, then some reference in 2006 that it's not worth it. Has anyone actually bothered, or is the line history?

 

 

[JasonG]

I would take Sol's word for it, he knows that neck of the woods better than most. The route he and Martins put up is supposed to be quite excellent and a good alternative to the original. The approach alone is classic, and there is a bunch to do back in there, esp. if you head over to the big face on Dome.

 

If you are looking for something a bit easier, the Beckey line climber's right of the west gully between the Gunsights looks amazing. We were traveling too light to give it a shot, but rock quality looked to be superb. We were kicking ourselves.

[John_Scurlock]

Here's a Feb 2010 look at it, click the word 'original' below the image to see the largest uploaded size:

 

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/141916132

 

 

[JasonG]

Wow, talk about some wicked ski terrain!

[Sol]

Great shot John!

 

That link brings back some great memories. I had a blast in the Gunsight Range, my first first ascent. Been meaning to get back there on that free West Face ever since.

 

The East Face as written in Nelson's select guide is gone, it's fallen off the mountain. A couple susequent parties loved our new East Face route. Another couple parties maybe not so much. But it seems like the approach and the north cascades weather might have gotten to them. It's not the biggest chunk of rock with the longest routes, but there some fine splitter granite out there, amazing views, and plenty of adventure to be had if you look around.

[shaoleung]

Sounds good. East Face was going to be the first run for a few days in August. Looking for beta on the rockfall, I read about the new routes and I'm even more stoked. The only tough part will be choosing which ones to do.

 

Thanks!

 

Ben

 

[Winter]

Hey who said we didn't enjoy the route? Although the face on Dome looks pretty dope.

[Sol]

Hey who said we didn't enjoy the route? Although the face on Dome looks pretty dope.

Looking back it seems like you guys "really enjoyed the East Face" so nevermind my comments.

 

We just climbed the East Face of Main Gunsight a few weeks ago. The rock except the first and last pitches was definitely good; however, the face, which looks sheer from afar, is so broken that each reported splitter is less than 20 feet long before a ledge or good stance is encountered. The shortness of the sustained sections and pitches in general does not take away from the rock quality, but means that the East Face can't be considered as classic as other similar routes in the range on high quality granite.

 

The quality on rock on the the descent (we rapped south and then down the gully to the east) and also on an accidental FA we did on the subpeak between Main and South Gunsight really, really sucked.

 

I really enjoyed the East Face but doubt I will be back for round 2 in the Gunsights.

 

One thing that might be worth mentioning is that Martins and myself approached from the west side/suiattle river road. Whether that approach is still feasible with road and trail closures im not sure. Nonetheless it was a very dramatic if exhausting way to access the range. Out of the forest and into the Ptarmigan Traverse high country, up and over dome, a traverse of the chikamin glacier, and then a bivy below the west face of the gunsight range with nightly simultaneous sunset-moonrise over the chikamin. Pretty classic scenario and something you dont get from the "easier" approach from the east side/stehekin.

[shaoleung]

Our current loose plan is to take the extended Suiattle River Road approach. Bivvying on the Itswoot sounds awesome.