Most Reasonable Route for Mt Shasta in March

[Marmot Prince]

I'm planning a trip up Mt Shasta as part of training for another Volcano in the northwest, which will remain a secret, but it starts with the letter R.

 

Obviously I'm only going up Shasta in good conditions without recent snow fall.

 

Avalanche Gulch is the standard route, but I'm wondering if people have experience of the other class 3 routes, espiecally at that time of year. Concerned about minimizing rock fall, avalanches etc.

[Water]

To answer your question, yes, people do have experience with the other class three routes at that time of year.

[DPS]

I've done Casaval Ridge and found it fun and relatively avalanche safe. Probably the highest avy danger is gaining the toe of the ridge ~ 30 degree snow slopes, but somewhat well anchored with rocks and trees.

 

We lucked out with only a small wind and graupel storm, in March conditions can be very windy and cold. Starts from the same trailhaead as Avalanche gulch so you can carry over and descend via Avalanche Gulch, downclimb the route, or camp at the second window, descend via the west face and traverse back to camp and drop down to Helen lake and out Avy Gulch. If you have skiis, you could ski the West Face. Rock fall should not be a problem if you climb while it is cold.

Edited January 5, 2012 by DPS

[Marmot Prince]

Thanks for the hands on experience, it's a great compliment to summitpost that I've also been reading. It's funny how SP seems to state an ice axe is optional on the easier routes when people fall all the time.

[DPS]

I suppose in late season the route melts out to scree, but in early season I would take an axe. It can get pretty icy in spots. As for routes, I found Casaval Ridge to be a hoot, as did my partner on his second ever mountain.

Edited January 5, 2012 by DPS

[111]

Sargent's ridge is a nice straightforward adventure. Casaval is very good too.