Little Si's World Wall 2?

[FFSummers]

Can't seem to find any info on this crag. Is it even called World Wall 2? Please don't flame me, I am a local. I asked about Equinox once and was politely told that there was no info because the local ethic was to keep it off the radar, which is fine by me (i don't climb 5.13 anyway). Same ethic on this crag? Just a guess since it's not found in the guide book and I didn't have any luck online either. We checked it out while taking the old trail down Mt Si yesterday and, wow!

 

It would be nice to know some ratings and it looks like a 70m rope is the way to go? Is the leftward traversing route with draws hanging found on the right side a 5.11? Should I delete this thread and keep it off the interweb? Are those the old draws from World Wall 1? Haha! They look similar.

 

I am not posting directions or inviting all my friends. Just excited to stumble upon another crag in my home town.

[Alex]

If its the crag with the long traversing trad/sport 11 from right to left, and a hard 13 up the middle, I've climbed there a few times. The 11 is full value, I havent gotten through it yet.

[FFSummers]

Yup, that sounds like the one. Nice traversing crack, it looked like a long hard route. It looked bolt protected from what i could see down low, but couldnt see the top of the route. Any beta on Pro? Just a few pieces?

[boadman]

I'm pretty sure it's in the guidebook. The 11 is orgasmatron. I don't think it requires any gear anymore.

[eric8]

11dish, all bolts

[obwan]

World Wall II was briefly mentioned in Bryan Burdo's "pamphlet" (1992) on Exit 32, it's above the new parking area as you described near a mossy vista.

Orgasmatron at that time was 3 bolts and rated a 5.12b - so it has gone from a sport/trad mix to all bolts and would support a 5.11dish.

I definitely would want a 70 meter.

[Frankazoid]

those are my draws on orgasmatron... they have been on there for about 2.5 years now. just fyi.

[FFSummers]

Thanks for the info guys. So it was a 12b but should be 11d? I have the current guide book but not that pamphlet from 92. After seeing that route it's on my "to-do" list for this year for sure, gives me a goal to work up to.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Isnt it also in Climbing Washington??

[FFSummers]

Isnt it also in Climbing Washington??

 

The Falcon guide by Smoot? I will look into that, thanks! I know it's not in Wa Rock or the 32 guide.

[obwan]

Thanks for the info guys. So it was a 12b but should be 11d? I have the current guide book but not that pamphlet from 92. After seeing that route it's on my "to-do" list for this year for sure, gives me a goal to work up to.

 

In '90/91 with only 3 bolts, being a mixed route, plus long and very hard it was thought to be a 12a or b. I know a route is a route, but some feel having the trad aspect on the route raises it a notch. Sometimes I even feel that on some routes that have been done thousands of times and worn smooth, they have become a grade harder than the original route - such as "Illusion Dweller" or "Solid Gold" in J.T. This thinking would probably be good bait for a debate - but it probably has more to do with me getting a little long in the tooth. Orgasmatron is a fun route to challenge one's self, have fun - it was a good find on your part using the old trail.

[j_b]

Sometimes I even feel that on some routes that have been done thousands of times and worn smooth, they have become a grade harder than the original route - such as "Illusion Dweller" in J.T. This thinking would probably be good bait for a debate - but it probably has more to do with me getting a little long in the tooth.

 

Certainly is an issue on soft rock like limestone that becomes slippery and somewhat dangerous after decades of use. I always thought it presented a sustainability issue.