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[TR] Mt. Hood - West Crater Rim Proper 12/9/2011


Holk

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Trip: Mt. Hood - West Crater Rim Proper

 

Date: 12/9/2011

 

Trip Report:

West Crater Rim has been a daunting goal for some time now, really only because of it's constant avy danger, but conditions were absolutely perfect up there Thursday.

I've always wanted to climb this route, specifically the variation that I did, and am not sure if you would fully consider it the WCR route even?

At any rate it was an awesome quick solo trip up the south side that lent to some better climbing than I had anticipated.

 

A mellow approach, but upon turning up the rim it got steep [45-50], afterward becoming mellow again but with significant exposure.

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The bank on the left leading up behind Castle Crags looks a lot more gentle from this point of view than it really is.

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A narrow resting spot above Castle Crags. Awesome views of the Reid from up here and a little more accurate visual on slope angle.

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The iconic saddle midway up the Reid Headwall.

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Here I was faced with a traverse below or climbing above without certainty of what was around the corner. I chose the rime above.

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The ridge/rim above Castle Crags.

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The neatest looking ice formations seen to date. Awesome stuff, although I'm sure they'll come crashing down sooner than later.

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Upper slopes of the Queens Chair above the Reid Headwall.

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Kendall [pictured] and Jason had just climbed the Gates - good and steep and icy they said.

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Gear Notes:

I used two axes, but you could've done it easily enough with one.

 

Approach Notes:

Headphones helped me ignore it this time.

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Hood couldn't be better right now for the time of year.

The winds were next to nil and the overall temps were rather mild; it felt nicer than when I was up last July.

And yes, there was some ice trickle, but most of those huge formations were easily avoidable and the rest was tiny.

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