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Winning stoke :)


chirp

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I won one of the "identify this climber" contests. Sadly my tricam pic didn't win. The winning pic wasn't even of a tricam! It was of a chockstone. But since I won one I don't feel the need to complain.

 

Grats Dru! Those are some of the toughest ones!

 

Quick backstory:

After getting married in 1991 we spent a week getting shut down on outings, we headed for a camp at Melakwa Lake and lured by a "4th class route" up the west face of Chair we set off.

After a rough start, I forgot my pack buckle was broken so we drove back to Seattle to find one (Another omen of course), then finally got on the trail.

On the way up a chap was hiking down with an old school "brick size" cell phone...we mocked the use of a cell phone in the woods (Omen number 8)and made camp at Melakwa lake.

Next morning we set out up the valley and the best looking route, using what sketchy details I could from the Beckey guide, began ascending.

After several hundred feet of delightful choss, we decided to descend and chill at camp.

Needless to say on a small snow section now softened by the morning sun, Toni lost her footing and tried to self arrest, losing her axe, she tumbled like a doll down the rock, steep snow, and talus. She came to rest sitting up covered in blood.

I ran down (!) the same terrain and found her concious and sitting up, a bit confuzzled about her situation.

I plopped her scalp back on and secured a bandana/cap combo and git her to walk back down the scree to camp, about 1/4 mile.

Folks had seen her fall and met us(one was a nurse), we got her warm and stabilized and someone ran down for help.

Long story short, we ended up putting her in my pack, legs sticking out the bottom and took turns carrying her until we met up with Search & Rescue with a litter and waited for the Army MAST to evac her to Harborview.

I continued down to the trailhead to be greeted by some 20 various news/rescue/police vehicles.

With all the distanced she fell/tumbled, she took it hardest in the face/head/jaws. They said her Bomb pack saved her spine and still has blood on its straps today.

Lesson from all of this...be aware of signs telling you to NOT do something...listen to the inner voice.

 

Most vivid memory: Hiking down with her on my back asking me to bend ofer so she could puke chocolate Power Bar we had for breakfast :/

 

She is fine now and we have one of the best "honeymoon" stories ever. :)

 

That is all :)

 

 

Scalp repair work.

 

toni_head.jpg

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Wash her face off..?? hell no.. we need get some pics!!
HA, that's rich! Reminds me of a story from ice climbering many years ago. Four of us were on the Icefields Parkway screwing around on our first day of the trip. My buddy decided to have a warm-up at Tangle Creek before we were gonna do Weeping Wall or Polar Circus the next day. He leads up, placing a couple screws, then pitches off the goddamned thing (it's like WI-2), which surprised the fuck outta me. I catch his fall, and he comes to rest about 10-15 feet below his last screw, with one of his picks firmly implanted into the side of his boot at the ankle. I ask him if he's OK...

 

Phil: Yeah, I think so, but my foot feels all warm and wettish...

Sobo: Can you see any blood coming out?

Phil: No, but it sure hurts like hell...

Carl: Hold on, lemme get a picture of it!

Sobo: (WTF???)

Phil (holding his leg out so everyone can see the axe stuck in his boot): Well, get on with it! I'm not gonna do this again, ya know... :laf:

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Wash her face off..?? hell no.. we need get some pics!!
HA, that's rich! Reminds me of a story from ice climbering many years ago. Four of us were on the Icefields Parkway screwing around on our first day of the trip. My buddy decided to have a warm-up at Tangle Creek before we were gonna do Weeping Wall or Polar Circus the next day. He leads up, placing a couple screws, then pitches off the goddamned thing (it's like WI-2), which surprised the fuck outta me. I catch his fall, and he comes to rest about 10-15 feet below his last screw, with one of his picks firmly implanted into the side of his boot at the ankle. I ask him if he's OK...

 

Phil: Yeah, I think so, but my foot feels all warm and wettish...

Sobo: Can you see any blood coming out?

Phil: No, but it sure hurts like hell...

Carl: Hold on, lemme get a picture of it!

Sobo: (WTF???)

Phil (holding his leg out so everyone can see the axe stuck in his boot): Well, get on with it! I'm not gonna do this again, ya know... :laf:

 

:tup::tup:

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