nels0891 Posted October 3, 2011 Posted October 3, 2011 Does anybody know if the route could be climbed on trad gear? I think that would be badass. Thanks. Quote
kevbone Posted October 3, 2011 Posted October 3, 2011 Sure if you like 100 - 500 foot run outs. Quote
nels0891 Posted October 3, 2011 Author Posted October 3, 2011 its that blank huh? I really had no idea, just figured i'd throw the question out of curiosity. Quote
Alex Posted October 3, 2011 Posted October 3, 2011 It depends of if you include "climbing trad" as also building trad anchors? Then no. If not, first section, which is aobut the first 5 pitches of low-angled slab: run-out but probably not too difficult to protect occaisionally with trad gear. The second section, which is where the route steepens through an overlap, then up the first headwall, to where the well-protected climbing ends and you have to do a mandatory 220 ft 4th class solo. No. The 4th class 220 - foot runout thing: there just isnt any pro or else the beta would be all over for how to use it. It's lower angle but really really unprotected, and (IMO) a hideous feature of the route. The top section, which is the final steep headwall, very doubtful. Quote
Rad Posted October 3, 2011 Posted October 3, 2011 It may be possible to climb this wall using natural features (cracks, shrubs) for protection, but you would probably not follow the IB route closely. Go ground up and tell us how it goes. It's pretty featured and not that steep. Quote
G-spotter Posted October 4, 2011 Posted October 4, 2011 Mount Garfield West Peak, South Face, New Route Mike Preiss solo climbed this face on sight, without bolts or pins, self-belaying the harder pitches in July 1999. A variation was reported in the March 2004 issue of Rock & Ice which is a fully bolted sport route that climbed the upper face straight on. The middle third of the original solo and variation are approximately the same line. On the original solo, a traverse in from the trees to a large shelf bypassed the 4-5 pitch lower third of the bolted variation. On the upper third, Mike climbed a nice chimney/corner on the left then finished 4-5 pitches on a rock rib (5.8); exiting the face 40-50 feet left of the highest point. The original solo bivied once on the face. III, 5.8 minimum Quote
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