[TR] Mount McGregor - West Ridge 7/26/2011

[Rad]

Trip: Mount McGregor - West Ridge

 

Date: 8/26/2011

 

Trip Report:

Rainier, Hood, and Fuji are iconic peaks that loom on the horizon of major cities. Each provides a powerful metaphor for a monumental challenge, often unrelated to climbing.

 

Climbers are drawn to these peaks in droves for the same reason Mallory was drawn to Everest: "Because it’s there”. For those who make it to the top, success is particularly sweet because afterward a mere glimpse of the peak can transport them back to past adventures, partnerships, and dreams fulfilled. For others, the peak is a constant reminder of an unfulfilled promise, a humiliating failure, or a litany of half-baked excuses stacked like unwashed dishes in the sink.

 

My wife grew up in the shadow of Mount Rainier. We climbed it together via the Emmons Glacier in 2003. The following month we got married in Stehekin, a tiny town at the head of Lake Chelan that’s only accessible by ferry, seaplane, or rugged wilderness trails. We visit Stehekin every year, and though our adventures have evolved as Ben, Anna, and Noah and other friends and family have joined us, one thing has remained unchanged: Mount McGregor.

 

As Mount Rainier towers over the Puget Sound, so Mount McGregor towers over Stehekin. Its West Ridge and rocky summit are always visible from the upper reaches of Lake Chelan and the Stehekin valley.

 

 

We’ve been staring at McGregor for the past eight years as we’ve biked, hiked, kayaked, swam, and explored different parts of the Stehekin valley. It was time to change that, to try to turn a daydream into action. We planned to climb McGregor during our summer trip to Stehekin.

 

The climb involves 16 miles and 6400 feet elevation gain and loss from the trailhead to the 8136-foot summit, and back again. A good trail leads to Heaton Camp at 7000 feet. Above that lies 1000 feet of snow and third class rock. The mileage and elevation would be similar to our 2002 one-day ascent of Mount Constance, the highest peak you see on the Olympic skyline when looking West from our home in Seattle. We tested our fitness on Mailbox Peak a week before our trip to Stehekin. All systems go.

 

The National Park trail report in Stehekin mentioned “treacherous hard snow” above Heaton Camp. I brought two ice axes, a skinny rope, a single harness, and a few runners for technical challenges the mountain might throw at us, but ice could be a show-stopper as we didn’t have sturdy boots or crampons. Hoping to find a rock route that would allow us to avoid the hard snow, I pored over photos of McGregor and tried to guess where the “treacherous” snow might lie. But descriptions were vague and it was unclear where the route went. We would just have to figure it out when we got there.

 

After three wonderful days in Stehekin, we were ready. We quietly slipped out of our cabin at 5:30am to hit the trail in the cool morning hours, leaving friends and family behind to watch over our kids during the day.

 

The miles slipped by easily as we marched up the trail. Just under 7000 feet, we paused at a basin that held the dreaded snowfield. Sure enough, the snow was rock hard. We easily skirted around it and scrambled up toward a ridge that should lead to the summit.

 

 

The steep slope of pebbles and hard dirt had few stable footholds, but it wasn’t dangerous. Just below the ridgecrest, I paused to take a photo of Beth…

 

 

And that’s where I saw that we were off track. WAY off track. In my haste, I’d led us up the wrong ridge. The true summit is marked by a tall radio repeater antenna, and it was a long way from where we stood.

 

 

Linking our ridge to the summit would probably involve several thousand feet of towers with questionable rock. So, we boot skied down the scree and re-joined the trail to Heaton Camp and the proper route to the summit. On the plus side, our detour gave me a good view of the real “treacherous” snowfield (lower left in the photo above), and I spied a direct line on solid-looking rock that would bypass it and lead us directly to the summit.

 

We re-joined the trail to the proper snowfield, drank from a small stream, and found an easy way past the first cliff. Mountain flowers and lichen peppered the rocky upper slopes of the mountain.

 

 

We ascended third class rock to a shoulder that would bring us over to a gully that should lead straight to the summit. There we found the mental crux of the day: a traverse on down-sloping sandy ledges with loose handholds. I offered Beth a belay, but she crossed before I could toss the end of the rope down to her.

 

 

We then pranced up solid rock directly to the summit.

 

 

The sun was warm and the air was perfectly still. We soaked in the views and gorged on delicious treats before heading down.

 

 

Prominent peaks provide fresh perspectives on familiar landmarks.

 

 

 

The descent of the upper mountain went quickly.

 

 

the miles ticked by easily, and we soon found ourselves back in the forest with a view of Glacier Peak.

 

 

And one of Dome Peak.

 

 

Other than a young buck we encountered on our descent,

 

 

We had the entire mountain to ourselves.

 

 

Coon Lake is picturesque, but it is a muddy pond best left to bass and beavers.

 

 

We hit the bakery, plunged in the lake, and enjoyed two more wonderful days with friends and family.

 

When we return to Stehekin next summer we’ll look up at Mount McGregor and remember a perfect day together on a beautiful peak.

 

 

Maybe someday we’ll take the kids up there with us.

 

 

Gear Notes:

None needed.

 

Approach Notes:

Ferry to Stehekin. Bike, shuttle, or car to High Bridge.

[genepires]

nice write up Rad.

[mountainsloth]

There is something to be said about a summit with the wife. I felt the same way when my then fiance and I climbed Exfoliation Dome together. It had been a multiple try en devour with a rich reward.

Nice work Rad.

[DAK]

I took a bunch of scouts up last week in July. the snow pack was down to 6000 ft. Heaton Camp site was completely buried in snow. Hard to believe how much melted away in 4 weeks. From McGregor, we trekked over to and up Sahale Peak. Then all the way back to Stehekin for an awesome BBQ at Stehekin Valley Ranch. One of the best places I have ever been!

[Rad]

That sounds like a fantastic trip. I see now that I put the wrong date in the TR title - too late to edit that - yes, we were there late August, not late July.

 

On July 26th I was in the Pickets, where there was still tons of snow.