[TR] Chimney rock Idaho - Rapell chimney 8/6/2011

[ezra]

Trip: Chimney rock Idaho - Rapell chimney

 

Date: 8/6/2011

 

Trip Report:

So I made it up to Chimney rock idaho from spokane on a day trip on august 10th. I managed to con a college buddy that I've known for 17 years into going with me. He has only climbed maybe 2 times in the last year and hadn't climbed trad since the Late 1990's.

 

Some how, I managed to convince him that I was incompetent to lead the climb. We hadn't seen each other since maybe 2002, but hit it off right away, like we hadn't missed a beat. We mostly talked about the usual, women, beer, politics and climbing. What else do to dudes ever talk about right?

 

The approach directions in Thad Laird's new "Rock Climbs in North Idaho" Guide book were lacking, but I managed to pilot my moms Toyota Taco up there with out incident.

 

The approach was snow free until we descended in to the Mount Rotham Cirque, we managed to not go sliding and only had ski poles to assist us. Neon green ones from the 1980's at that.

 

We climbed the rapel chimney. Hope you enjoy. It was rated 5.7 but did the 2nd pitch hand crack variation, which I swear is 5.8 at least.

 

Enjoy the pics!

chimney rock

 

Edited September 5, 2011 by ezra

[johnson]

such a fun place and route! I enjoyed the variation as well. I believe I ran track against you Ezra back in the day.

[ezra]

Johnson,

You probably ran against me, I was at Ferris, Ellis is my last name, what's your first and last name and school?

 

Did you think the hand crack was hard for 5.7? 8D

[Dane]

Sounds liek a great trip. Congrads on a wonderful summit!

 

Laird says 4 pitches. I understand how you can get three, but four? The third being the 3rd class short pitch onto the north face and getting to the summit. The two short pitches to the right of the chimney up to the blocks just below the summit. If you stay in the chimney the second pitch is Westside Girls, which Laird doesn't bother to show. Also not shown is Peterman's difficult Twin Cracks on the left side of the Chimney on the second pitch.

 

Not the most impressive guide book ever authored. Green's is better for Chimney.

 

Here is the more typical second pitch of the Rappel Chimney which historically was rated 5.6, not 5.7 as Laird has it rated. But you must step a bit right (facing the rock) to get into this crack system. From your pictures it looks to be what you climbed from what I cna tell.

 

Old school 5.6 can be an eye opener

 

[ezra]

Thanks Dane, it was a great summit.

 

You did some very impressive FA's up there in the 70s and 80s, 5.11d R, not many people doing that now even.

 

I agree, the route is really only 3 pitches and that's only due to the rope drag. With a 70 meter rope it could almost be done as one pitch. Randall Green's Idaho Rock seems superior to Laird's book in many ways. Laird also leaves out the FA info witch seems like a crime to me... Still Laird's book seems like a descent effort.

 

Thanks for the beta on west side girls and twin cracks. Did you find It Ain't hay hard or soft for a 5.9 and how did it protect?

 

Thanks!

-Ezra

Ps. Old school 5.6 can be pretty bad A$$, especially in the Tetons!

 

 

[Dane]

Thanks Ezra, we were just lucky to have so much virgin rock.

I doubt all the ratings would hold up today. But a few like, UNI, have done better than expected. But at least the maiority of them were done onsight. The last pitch of Tsunami wasn't one of them though.

 

I think It Ain't Hay is easier than say West Face Direct. And I like the multiple syles of climbing WFD requires over the typical right facing lay backs that IAHay and the cracks on both sides of Chimney offer. Those flakes generally require at least a bit of run out between lay backs.

 

WFDirect is old school 5.8 and if Damnation is any comparison (and we thought it was) now 5.9+

 

"Still Laird's book seems like a descent effort" Ya, we can agree to disagree on that

[johnson]

I ran for CV and mostly ran the 800m. My name is Brian Johnson. We worked together at Shamrock as well.

 

It was many years ago when i climbed that thing; perhaps 10 years ago. i remember the route being very cruiser but yeah exiting out from under that triangular block was perhaps 5.7+ish. I went left but later read to go right.

 

Lets get a climb in soon. Perhaps next summer we could connect?

[ezra]

Oh yeah, I remember you Brian,

The guy with the band, You were headed to redlands in Ca, for speach pathology?

 

I live in south eastern Idaho now, 8 hours drive from spokane, but If I make it up there next summer (and can get a pass from my wife) I'll send you a message.

 

Good to hear from you and hope you are well BIG JOHNSON....

Edited October 11, 2011 by ezra

[Phil K]

BIG JOHNSON?

 

8D