route info - beloved rocky butte

[B Deleted_Beck]

howdy

 

yep.. another RB thread. that's the only crag i ever climb..

 

wondering if anyone has a rating/name for the route on the upper ledge of silver bullet to the left of Sundance Kid and Panama Red... i'd sort of projected it over the course of two trips out there, thinking it WAS sundance kid, .10a... kind of wondering why i couldn't get it (i'm no beast, but i should be able to send any 10a on TR with multiple tries).. i just looked in the book, and see that PRC lists it as "______________."

 

un-named, un-rated... anybody know?

 

-ben

 

i did finally send this, BTW.. i'm poor at rating things, but i guess i'd call it a 10b, for the tricky hidden hold move above the overhang.

Edited August 31, 2011 by bkb0000

[pcg]

Photo?

[B Deleted_Beck]

actually.. i think i do..

 

 

not a great shot- all thats visible of the route in question is the start to the overhang on the left, and the arete above it.. upper ledge, SBB

[billcoe]

Check yer guidebook. P 19?

[pcg]

The corner in the pic is Sundance, but he's right - the route to the left is unnamed, at least in the 4th edition...

BTW I am finding RB is a hard place to learn to rock climb. After starting off at Horsethief Butte I have been getting my butt kicked at RB. Most of the climbs are hard, from my perspective - a very humbling experience for me!

[billcoe]

The corner in the pic is Sundance, but he's right - the route to the left is unnamed, at least in the 4th edition...

BTW I am finding RB is a hard place to learn to rock climb. After starting off at Horsethief Butte I have been getting my butt kicked at RB. Most of the climbs are hard, from my perspective - a very humbling experience for me!

 

Yeah, it's a bad place to learn to lead. Bad. Just toprope that stuff and don't sweat it. If you want to do easy stuff/nice bouldering and get your strength and skillz up, go to the top on the manmade stuctures. Leave the chalkbag in the car if you would though.

[Lodestone]

The corner in the pic is Sundance, but he's right - the route to the left is unnamed, at least in the 4th edition...

BTW I am finding RB is a hard place to learn to rock climb. After starting off at Horsethief Butte I have been getting my butt kicked at RB. Most of the climbs are hard, from my perspective - a very humbling experience for me!

 

 

Don't worry about the numbers. Just climb what you can and have fun!

 

 

Chad

[Lodestone]

Check yer guidebook. P 19?

 

 

 

page 19

 

 

 

C

[B Deleted_Beck]

Check yer guidebook. P 19?

 

that's awesome, man.. thanks.. i don't think it's She's Breaking Up Captain, though- that must be the crappy crack/diagonal dihedral thing to the left of the route in question. unless it's broken apart so much since the day it was developed that it's become a much more difficult route..

 

?

[B Deleted_Beck]

The corner in the pic is Sundance, but he's right - the route to the left is unnamed, at least in the 4th edition...

BTW I am finding RB is a hard place to learn to rock climb. After starting off at Horsethief Butte I have been getting my butt kicked at RB. Most of the climbs are hard, from my perspective - a very humbling experience for me!

 

RB is a way BETTER crag than it gets credit for. im continually shocked at the way dirt-bag climbers turn their noses up at it. i obviously dont have a whole lot to go off, but its my opinion that RB's full of very high quality climbing. great place to learn, in my opinion.

 

and as my niggah chad said above, dont pay attention to the numbers- i disagree with some. there's .10bs out there i have no trouble with, and a 5.8 i STILL haven't sent (Robotics, on video- what the hells up with that transition from crack to flaring dihedral?).

Edited September 1, 2011 by bkb0000

[Teh Phuzzy]

RB is a way BETTER crag than it gets credit for. im continually shocked at the way dirt-bag climbers turn their noses up at it. i obviously dont have a whole lot to go off, but its my opinion that RB's full of very high quality climbing. great place to learn, in my opinion.

 

It gets ragged on because of the [lack of] scenery, the trash, and the constant noise of the freeway right there. There has been a lot of cleaning up out there lately and I am glad to hear about. I should be out at the next one on the 17th, I believe. That's the crag I started climbing at, but I haven't been there in couple years due to the conditions I stated.

 

and as my niggah chad said above, dont pay attention to the numbers- i disagree with some. there's .10bs out there i have no trouble with, and a 5.8 i STILL haven't sent (Robotics, on video- what the hells up with that transition from crack to flaring dihedral?).

 

this one?

 

 

only ever TR'ed it and at wasn't pretty. That and Ace, a few lines to the left, always gave me a ton of trouble for only being 5.8.

 

Back to the OP: its a blank line in the third and second edition too, but I second what Chad and bkb000 already said.

[B Deleted_Beck]

that'd be the one.. fuck that route.

[pcg]

That and Ace, a few lines to the left, always gave me a ton of trouble for only being 5.8.

I've yet to try Robotics, but I've tried Ace and bailed when I got to the rock hanging underneath the tree, that's being pushed out by the root system. It looks like it could come off if you pulled on it. I'll pass.

 

I like RB with one exception - the freeway noise makes it impossible to hear my partner. Yeah its dirty, but I chalk that up to good experience. Hopefully I will start remembering to bring a small whisk broom. As for the trash, that's unfortunate. We always bring a garbage bag and take out what we can. Wish there was an easy way to get rid of the graffiti.