[TR] Mt. Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier 8/6/2011

[Daniel B]

Trip: Mt. Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier

 

Date: 8/6/2011

 

Trip Report:

We hiked in on Friday, August 5th to the flattish area at 6,400 feet. The trail between 4,000 and 4,600 feet is an off-trail bushwack which is intermittently marked with pink flagging tape. There is a great deal of blowdown to contend with.

 

After 4,600 feet, the still snow covered trail follows Shannon Ridge up to an obvious notch which then winds around to the camping area at 6,400 feet. All of this snow is in great shape. As of yesterday, there was a solid boot track to follow.

 

Our summit day was Saturday, August 6th. We left camp at 5:40 a.m., roped up to the base of the summit pinnacle. We stayed on the far West side of the glacier to avoid the massive amount of crevasses to the East. We didn't cross any crevasses until the bergschrund at the base of the summit pinnacle.

 

Our group of 6 ascended through the "3rd class gully" which was a little challenging due to the remnant snow. Although most of the snow in the gully is melted out, there is still quite a bit in the "hourglass." When firm, the snow in the gully would be great to climb but due to a high volume of climbers, the snow had had a chance to melt out a bit, so we switched over to the rock on climber's left.

 

Around 100 feet below the summit, we were pretty much forced back onto the snow until about 20 feet below the summit block. A fixed line and prusiks on the soft snow helped calm nerves here, though it ended up being more for mental peace of mind than actual necessity. The last 20 feet was an easy snow free scramble to the true summit.

 

There were plenty of exposed rap stations on the way down and we didn't need to leave any of our gear behind. We did 3 raps (60 meter, double rope), though I counted at least 5 rap stations which would be probably be okay for those with only a single 60 meter rope.

 

The traverse at the base of the gully back to the base of the pinnacle was a little hairy with the soft snow and ice covered rock. It was hard to sink the ice axe in much further than a foot in places due to the rock beneath.

 

The hike back to camp was straight forward. We arrived a little before 9 p.m.

 

The hike back to the trailhead in the morning took about 3 hours. The trickiest part was navigating through the blowdown between 4,600 and 4,000 feet.

 

Gear Notes:

2 * 60 meter ropes

Brought plenty of gear to set up rap stations, but didn't need it due to pre-existing rap stations.

[Water]

thanks for write up -- looking to head up to shuksan this weekend. Really appreciate the fresh beta and detail.

 

If I may clarify your camp-summit-camp time -- it seems long but having not done the route just trying to get a sense of it -- is that long or par for the route more or less. If a bit slow, was it due to group size of 6, bottlenecks with other groups, etc? coming from PDX our preference is to get back to the TH before dark on sunday. Though I think we will be inclined for more of an alpine start than sunrise start.

 

thanks much

 

 

 

[chazmart]

We were on the same schedule as Daniel's group. We left just before his group at 5:35am and topped out at 10:55am. Five hours and twenty minutes from camp to summit. The last few hundred feet took a while up and down due to snow in the gully. On the way up it was firm. On the way down it was slush, so we rapped all the way down until we were on continuous snow below the gully. We left some gear as some existing rap stations looked questionable. Better to leave a few dollars worth of gear than have a failed rap anchor. Returned to camp by 4:30, packed up camp, departed camp at 6:30 and back to cars at 9:30pm.

 

In order of summiting, there was a guided party of four, a party of two, one of Daniel's group, our party of two, another party of two, two more of Daniel's group, another party of two, the remaining three of Daniel's group. That was all I saw during the day. Rangers said on a busy weekend there may be up to 45 climbers summiting during the day. We saw one party doing it as a day trip. Most others were camped overnight.

A little bit of congestion in the gully but nothing major. People were polite and took turns. We were only delayed by a few minutes here and there, and we delayed one other party by a few minutes.

I think an earlier start is better, snow conditions will be better on ascent and descent.

[justcallmegary]

Where's the pics dude? HS

[Daniel B]

The camp-summit-camp time was long because we made the mistake of letting 2 slow climbers get in front of us.

 

Three of our group of 6 summited at 11:00 a.m. The other 3 summited at 2:15 p.m. Yes, that's a difference of 3.25 hours because we let those 2 climbers get in front of us.

 

Some people definitely have long days on this route due to the bottlenecks.

 

I would definitely recommend starting up at 4 or 5 am. to avoid the bottleneck of multiple climbers.

Edited August 9, 2011 by Daniel B

[Daniel B]

For what it's worth, chazmart's recall of the summit order seems to be right on the money.

[Water]

appreciate the follow-up. Hope my query didn't sound like it was critical - definitely dealt with bottle necks before!

 

still trying to decide between this and fisher chimneys for our group, but all this info is very helpful.

 

cheers

[LoneGeezer52]

We were up there Sunday, the day after Daniel B. Camped at 6500', left camp 5:30 AM. Reached the summit block just before the sun hit the snow in the gully, about 8:30. Good cramponing most of the way up the gulley, with 2 scramble sections where it was melted out, belayed 1 of those. We were the first of 3 groups, so didn't have to deal with the bottleneck horrorshow (but I have seen it up there). Snow softened quickly, good plunge-stepping on the way down. We did 3 raps, 1 double off the summit block, 1 single through one of the rock sections, and another double to the base, all with 30m ropes. Back at camp at 2:30.

Navigation on the way off Shannon Ridge was tricky, as Daniel B noted. We started out too far skier's right, used our GPS track from the day before to get back on route. We saw what appeared to be several flagging lines, didn't trust them.

Water: the route is definately in... go get it.

[JasonG]

To avoid all the frustrations of other parties in the gully, I think it is a good idea to bring a few nuts and tri cams and climb the SE ridge of the summit pyramid (low fifth). This is a fantastic way to finish the climb and I am surprised that it isn't more popular. I think it took us ~11-12 hrs car to car last September (not rushing) so you don't have to camp and deal with the permit fiasco either.

[SExNW]

I second JasonG's recommendation on taking the SE ridge variation to avoid the bottleneck-ing in the gully. Who doesn't want to round out that great approach without placing a few nuts on 5-easy lead?