Goat Wall - Prime Rib

[Bronco]

My friend Jay and I used siege tactics on this route on Sunday, neither of us have rock climbed much lately (years for me) so we were a little slow. It’s a fun and worthwhile climb but I’d consider parking bikes at the top if I were to do it again. We were kind of surprised a how much loose rock is still present on the route considering how much traffic it gets so remember your helmet and be careful if rapping the route.

 

The grades (Grade III+ 5.9) seemed a little over rated as compared a climb like the E. Face of Lexington Tower (also a Grade III+ 5.9)? How does a straight sport climb’s commitment grade differ from an alpine grade? Is there a difference?

 

[russ]

imo the last pitch has a 5.9 move, so I'm okay with the overall rating. Pitch 8 isn't 5.9, imo, but a fun pitch and climb nonetheless.

 

In theory 5.9 is 5.9, but in the real world there's much variation... Grade III is half a day climbing - seems about right for III+ to get back down.

[pms]

trad vs sport. fair ratings for those two climbs I would say, but no question which is the harder climb. good comparison Bronc

 

[Phil K]

Bikes at the top? Inquiring minds want to know how that works out.

[Tyson.g]

There is a road that goes to the top.

If you do a google search for Prime Rib - Mazama you will find beta that gives the road number etc.

When I climbed the route a couple months ago there was a team of older fellows that were wishing they had dropped a car at the top "like we did last time".

If you are effecient the rappels are not all that bad and it only takes a couple of hours to get down.

I would agree with Russ regarding the ratings and I would second that the only real 5.9 move was on the last pitch. Pitch 8 is sustained and fun climbing but at the most it is 5.8+.

Curt and I found it easy to skip at least a few clips on every pitch.

 

[Phil K]

Thanks, I'll look into that next time. Fun trip.