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colin 2

[TR] mt stuart - north ridge 7/9/2011

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Trip: mt stuart - north ridge

 

Date: 7/9/2011

 

Trip Report:

I've been reading cc for years, but this is my first post.

 

I climbed the north ridge of mt stuart this weekend with a party of four (two rope teams of two).

 

As I was hoping to find a conditions report last week, I will provide one now.

 

We met after work in Cle Elum on friday night and hiked in. We camped near Ingalls lake.

 

Local climbers:

 

 

DSCN28321.JPG

 

 

The entrance gully is still full of snow. The stuart glacier is also steep with a run-out into open crevasses.

 

 

DSCN2857.JPG

 

 

DSCN2866.JPG

 

 

DSCN28691.JPG

 

 

The route is mostly snow free

 

 

DSCN28871.JPG

 

 

We bivied below the great gendarme. The usual sites are covered with snow, so we chopped out a ledge.

 

Sunset:

 

 

DSCN2897.JPG

 

 

Gendarme fun:

 

 

DSCN2916.JPG

 

 

The fixed #4 is still there and looking good.

 

 

There is more snow towards the top of the climb

 

 

DSCN2923.JPG

 

 

We descended the cascadian couloir, which was still full of snow

 

 

DSCN2947.JPG

 

 

With all the snow, finding the trail to longs pass took some work.

 

Overall it was a fun trip with great partners and amazing views. The rock climbing is in, but be prepared for some glacier travel and steep snow climbing.

 

 

Thanks for reading

 

-colin

 

 

Gear Notes:

Standard rack.

 

No snow pro - could have used some on the stuart glacier and gully.

 

Approach Notes:

Ingalls / Goat pass. Lots of snow.

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Colin, it was great meeting you, and a really fun climb. You took some awesome photos, thanks man!

 

Phil

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Looks like a great trip, thanks for the update. Are crampons needed to descend Cascadian or would approach shoes + axe work?

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we glissaded much of the cascadian - no need for crampons there, at least late in the day. However, I would not want to cross the Stuart glacier or climb the gully without them. We also used them hiking in Friday night to Ingalls, Saturday morning over goat pass and Sunday night over longs pass.

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