middle sister hayden glacier question

[Water]

got a bud fairly new to climbing tho he needs more rope practice before glacier stuff. We are planning on hitting middle sister in the next week or so. to avoid glacier, were going to go north of hayden glacier through some bowls on way up to the col. I have done this route on descent. anyone have any feedback about the north part of hayden glacier where i have seen bootpack in summer and nary a crevasse in past years? you do it unroped? always rope?

 

in descending north sister a few years ago i came down the south ridge to the col then east, sticking right at the north edge of hayden glacier, not being on it, getting back to soap creek that way. again plan is to try this for the way up to the col, though, suspect with snow cover maybe knowing where exact edge of glacier is isn't crystal clear? hafta take a looksee and just find out i guess. think there are more terrain traps there with snow than on glacier is my main concern with that aspect.

 

thanks for any feedback, much appreciated

cheers

[Chrisr62]

I've never done the route you're talking about. I've always gone up the North side of Hayden. Even in late Summer the Crevasses are typically on the Left at the base of the East face or off to the North Edge of Hayden. I've done it both roped and un-roped depending on who I am with. Just stay on the highest point of the glacier and head straight up toward Prouty Point (the col). It' a good place to practice roped travel.

 

Beware the upper section above Prouty Point. It can be a bit steep in some years.

[Water]

thanks for feedback.

 

i think we'll just bring the rope stuff and can mess around a bit in camp and as you said, good place to practice. i agree from everything i have viewed staying at that crest/ridge of the glacier on the north I have not see cracks going across it really--yes down to the northern edge and more to the south but not high.

 

clarification: upper section above prouty point--you mean just getting from the col onto middle's north ridge or from hayden up to the col? either way i guess we'll see it if its such.

 

cheers

 

 

[Pallando]

I've done that route up, but I would agree with Chrisr62 that this would probably be a good time to practice roped travel. Following the line up Hayden is crevasse free (I've never seen anything on the north edge). Just shoot for Prouty and you'll be fine.

[jlawrence10]

We did that route last year in July, and really saw no reason to rope up whatsoever.

 

Once you get out above treeline, from what I recall, you ascend through some bowls straight up toward the mountain, then bear right (north) a little to gain the ridge that heads directly up to the saddle between middle and north. At that point you leave any crevasses down to your left on the Hayden itself.

 

We roped up on the way down, mostly for practice, and pitched out the slightly steeper, firmer part on the way up for practice and comfort.

 

You can check out pics here... http://gallery.me.com/jlawrence10#gallery ...if you want. There is a perfect camp site right around 8500 (if I recall correctly, and I might not) as the trees start to thin out. If I can find coordinates I'll send them your way.

 

If you have specific questions, shoot me a PM. Have fun!

 

[Holk]

I traversed the middle sister from south to north late last summer and descended the hayden glacier.

 

I recall crevasses to the south a ways - definitely off your path - but also a few lower down on the glacier that were barely to the north of the glacier ridge.

 

Check the last image: Directly below Prouty Point and the glacier ridge crevasses are slightly visible. Not the small one in the foreground, but mid-frame.

 

 

 

 

 

[wimsey]

There is 100+ inches of snow on top of that glacier now.

[Holk]

There is 100+ inches of snow on top of that glacier now.

 

True. I should have mentioned my awareness of such and factored it in. I was simply stating where the crevasses are; not that they are of much, if any, threat right now.

[Chrisr62]

Water,

 

When you get to the saddle (South of Prouty Point)and start heading up the North Side of Middle, there can be a steep section of snow on the upper slope. You'll know when you get to it. May want to bring a few pickets...

 

Enjoy. It's beautiful out there this time of year.

[Water]

was a great time. My primary partner ended up getting shafted at work and wasn't able to come. by chance from having posted here someone send me a msg with some info and they had same weekend plans--so we met up at 7k and had ourselves a great climb. I think we'll do a TR in a bit.

 

Now know the mention of steepness-but I found it to be enjoyable-quite nice, glad to have finally mounted all three of those ladies. I had guessed as much that the route had crazy snow over any glacier features but just wanted to bounce the confirmation from anyone more in the know.

 

thanks everyone for the feedback. looking forward to taking my friend out there when his work gives him the time. he'll love it.

 

cheers

[scheissami]

So... All the crevasses were filled? Sounds safe sans rope, eh?

 

Pics?!

 

Glad you had a good trip, cheers.

[Water]

scheissami:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1021295