castle rock ID guidebook or other info?

[genepires]

I got a old rock and ice issue with a brief guidebook for the castle rock area just outside of the city of rocks. Dave Bingham has a guidebook for that area called "Castle Rocks Idaho".

Is this the best guidebook for that area?

What is better? (either book or online)

 

Any recommendation for routes in castle rocks? Lone rock seems like the place for the moderate rock monkey. (5.10 and less)

 

thanks in advance,

gene

 

 

[genepires]

maybe a better question is if there is even climbing allowed there? What is the extent of the ban from last year?

[genepires]

From what I can figure out via the access fund it seems like most of the climbing in my primitive article guidebook is still open. Is it only the BLM land that is off limits?

 

http://www.accessfund.org/site/apps/nlnet/content2.aspx?c=tmL5KhNWLrH&b=5051885&ct=8163137

[Drederek]

Went there late last year and it was all pretty much open. Lots of good 10 and under sport stuff on Castle Rock. Red Rib was memorable and Zinger was a nice 3 pitch outing. Saw another crag there on mountainproject that looked good for easier stuff but don't recall the name.

[genepires]

Lots of good 10 and under sport stuff on Castle Rock. Red Rib was memorable and Zinger was a nice 3 pitch outing.

my only guidebook calls this area Lone Rock. This is the only place I have been to there.

 

another crag there on mountainproject that looked good for easier stuff but don't recall the name.

 

Crack House? Just north of castle rock?

[Drederek]

Bracksicks pillar was what I was lookn at. Binghams guide and some printouts from mtn proj is all I've used for guidebooks there the two times I've been.

[turn_one]

Lots of good 10 and under sport stuff on Castle Rock. Red Rib was memorable and Zinger was a nice 3 pitch outing.

These areas mentioned are all open however other areas (zones) at Castle are curently closed, consult the parks website Castle Rock and/or stop by the ranger station right outside the park for the latest.

 

From my experience the latest route info (for zones 1 and 2) can be found here Zone 1 and here Zone 2 . I'm not a fan of Bingham's guide books but they do detail areas not found elsewhere.

 

I personally prefer the rock climbing at the Castle over the neighboring City; routes are varied, rock quality is amazing and aside from the hoardes at Castle Rock proper the people seem to thin out the further away from the parking lot you get. One of my absolute favorite crack climbs is here at the city is Comp Splitter goodness on Comp Wall but there are plenty around here that I haven't done that I'm sure are as good or better.

 

When are you going? I know some guys heading there for a month shortly and could probably use a partner if you're in need.

 

Enjoy!

[Jopa]

The crack house is a fun crag to spend a half-day. The features on the rock are really unique.

 

Comp wall looks outstanding, but I didn't make it there last time.

[genepires]

thanks everyone! that online guidebook looks like what I was needing.

[Tyson.g]

Interested in seeing your tick list for over yonder Gene.

[turn_one]

thanks everyone! that online guidebook looks like what I was needing.

 

...if I can suggest some more:

 

Twinkie this is now a 3 pitch line with the crux at .10c on the 1st pitch.

 

Shop and Compare haven't done this one but it looks amazing and many other stellar lines in that area

 

The adventure route on the Sorcerer's Stone, can't remember the name but the final crack pitch is worth the wandering.

[layton]

hostess gully is good, crackhouse sucks. the long easy bolt climbs are so boring. The comp wall has some fun routes. All in all, the city of rocks near parking lot rock to breadloaves is waaaaay better.

[layton]

oh shop and compare is ... ok. Splitter is pretty good though. Womens final route is unbelievably shity