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Frankazoid

Enchantments permit q's

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So this coming summer i'd like to climb the mole, b-team buttress and a few other things up there... How does the permit thing work? I heard you have to request dates or some shit? Do you wait for them to tell you when you can go? And if you can't make it for that specific date (when it comes time) your screwed? Who plans and lives like that? Iv'e heard mixed things, and I would love to hear more simplistic and straight foward. My climbing is always random and unplanned for the most part. So the idea of planning a date for climbing seems borderline psychotic/ unheard of/ just nuts to me. And the quite honestly i have a hard time keeping a date for anything! Any way to have freedom and creativity with your trip up there?

Edited by Frankazoid

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also: Whats the reccomended approach for the mole? does anybody still slog up rat creek, or is that just asking for a bad trip?

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just show up at the ranger station in the middle of town mid-week around 730 am and bring your wallet

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All your permit question answers can be found here: http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/wenatchee/passes/enchantments/ It sounds like they are moving to a privatized online reservation system this year. You'll still either need to block out specific dates for your reservation request or risk the daily lottery.

 

The good news for you is that if you stay below the Edwards Plateau in Hook or Rat Creeks you are just outside of the permit area by my interpretation of the map. You should just be able to get a normal backcountry permit any ol time.

 

When I did the Mole last year we followed the trail to Yellowjacket Tower and then went up Hook Creek and I didn't think it was too bad as far as things go. I think we used the approach described in the newest guidebook. It sucked the most coming down in the rain the next day when walking on the logs was out of the question. I've heard Rat Creek is much worse. Be prepared for several hours to get up there any way you go.

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Thanks OlyMtnBoy- thats good to know. Pretty stoked to get up there in a few months... Would love to spend a few days up there in that area... I drool over it every time I stare up at it from the icicle.

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I recommend going in via Hook creek. Rat creek is way more of a suck fest. Hook is nice and direct, fairly open with not a lot of deadfall, and you can camp on the mesa if you so choose which is a bad ass spot.

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Tazz, nice TR that I hadn't seen, thanks for sharing. Here is our TR from last year for those interested: http://cascadeclimbers.com/trip-reports/alpine/the-mole-north-face-6-5-2010-4939/

 

I would like to get back up there to do the Duolith and other stuff some time as well, lots of nice 2-3 pitch lines up there, but not much longer.

 

Camping on the Mesa did look nice although it is technically inside the permit zone (not that it's likely they'll be checking on you there, but you never know). With less snow than we had I think camping at the last spot on the way up to the Mole would be nice too. Our ledge camp sucked ass and was full of ticks but we were too lazy to dig a flat spot in the crappy snow.

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