Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys

[Dangergirl]

Hi! I am planning to come out to climb Mount Shuksan in August and looking to do the Fisher Chimneys route. Any advice or links? Thanks a bunch!

check out my blog at www.dangergirldh.com

[DPS]

Welcome Dangergirl. Fisher Chimneys is one of my favorite routes on Shuksan and August is a good time to do it.

 

Here is a link that may be helpful (although not super): http://www.summitpost.org/fisher-chimneys/155674

 

Here is a trip report by the incomparable Steph Abegg that may offer more details: http://www.summitpost.org/mt-shuksan-fisher-chimneys/470490

 

Here is what I can say about the route.

 

Finding the correct gulley at the start of the chimneys is kind of tricky. Choosing the wrong gulley can make the climb much more difficult and potentially dangerous. I recall needing to get on top of the talus/scree field, nearly hugging the cliff walls, after the trail from Lake Ann peters out. The correct gulley 'should' be the first obvious gulley you find. There used to be a faded, yellow circle of paint at the entrance identifying the correct gulley.

 

The correct gulley is not super hard, mostly 3rd class with a few points of 4th. I have seen people belaying in the chimneys but it never seemed necessary to me. 'Chimneys' is a misnomer, the gulleys are fairly wide. If the gulley seems more difficult than 4th class or is narrow then you probably took the wrong gulley.

 

There is an awesome place to bivi on top of the chimneys, below Winnie's Slide. Flat and sandy with room for a few tents and a wonderul airy position. Snow for making water is close by.

 

By August the route can be icy and broken up in a couple of spots (Winnie's Slide, gaining the Upper Curtis Glacier, and Hell's Highway). Bring a 2-3 screws in addition to your regular glacier kit.

 

The summit pyramid should be snow free by August and offers a few route choices. Climb loose gulleys up the south face or take one of the ridges. I have done the west ridge a couple of times, which is a solid, enjoyable climb. I have heard the east ridge is good too, albeit a bit more technical. The south face has numerous fixed rappel anchors.

 

You may want to bring a small rock rack for the pyramid (e.g. 6 medium to large nuts, 3 cams (.5, .75, 1) that depending upon your party's comfort level may be useful for a few belayed pitches in the chimneys. A 50 meter half rope seems to be about the right length which can be doubled for any short sections that you want to belay.

 

Best of luck,

 

DPS

Edited December 27, 2010 by DPS

[rob]

great summary, nothing much to add, except that you should leave the east coast and move out to the cascades!!

[kurthicks]

There are also killer bivy sites at the top of Winnie's Slide. Better than below the slide IMO, with more reliable running water coming off the Upper Curtis.

[Dangergirl]

Thank you for the information! Yes, I would like to move out west! Hopefully in a year! I am getting bored of New England!