denalidevo Posted October 21, 2010 Posted October 21, 2010 Trip: The Valley / Tuolumne / Bishop - Recap: Two weeks in Yosemite Date: 9/27/2010 Trip Report: Went south to The Valley for my (sixth!) annual Fall trip Sep 26 - Oct 10. Weather summary: heat wave, then stormy & wet, and finally, perfect. Sep 27 - Oct 1: Yosemite - too hot, climbed in the shade, escaped to Tuolumne for a day. Super Slide - II, 5.9 (soloed p1, led 3-5) The Grack - I+, 5.6 (led p1, 3) Trial by Fire - I, 5.8 OW/Chimney (led, onsite) Cathedral Peak, SE Buttress - III, 5.7 as climbed (led p1, 3, 4, 5) Harry Daley - I+, 5.8 (led p1-2) Chouinard Crack - I, 5.7 (followed) Little John Left - I, 5.8 OW (led, onsite) Then it rained in The Valley for 5 days. We escaped to Bishop and tried to salvage things. Oct 4 - 6: Owens River Gorge - sport climbing with the ever-present threat of thundershowers. Abitarot - 5.10a (TR, clean) Hardley Wallbanger - 5.10c (TR, clean) Hungover - 5.11b (TR) Child of Light - 5.9 (onsite) Heart of the Sun - 5.9 (onsite) Yellow Peril - 5.10c (TR, clean) PG13 - 5.9 (onsite) Warning Signs - 5.10d (TR, clean) Valley 5.8 - 5.10a (onsite) If I Told You I'd Have to Kill You - 5.11a (TR) Oct 8-10: Weather normalized - back to The Valley for the final three days. Reed's Direct / Reed's Regular - II, 5.9 (led p1 - 5.9 hands, p3 - 5.8 squeeze traverse) Lunatic Fringe - I, 5.10c (followed, clean). Moby Dick - I, 5.10a (led first 120+ ft, lowered off after running out of gear, thrashing up and then sliding down 15 ft. of OW to my last piece multiple times) :: Higher Spire, Regular Route - II, 5.9 (led p1, 3, 5). Awesome! Werner's Ant Tree / The Surprise - II, 5.10c / 5.10a (led p2, 4) Mañana - I, 5.10c (TR). Wicked overhanging off-finger crack! Photos: Kurt following pitch five 5.9 wide fingers crack on Super Slide Kurt following pitch four on Cathedral Peak Me atop Cathedral Peak Cathedral Peak from descent trail Olmstead Point panorama Uber-tight tarp setup to thwart the deluge Descending into the Middle Owens River Gorge Seth leading Abitarot The Great Wall of China Me leading Child of Light Mike leading If I Told You I'd Have to Kill You Seth leading pitch 2, Reed's Direct Seth following the 5.8 squeeze chimney traverse, Reed's Regular Summit shot on Higher Spire Valley panorama from Higher Spire Seth at the .10c crux on Werner's Ant Tree Splitter fingers on Mañana More photos: Yosemite Fall 2010 photo collection on Flickr Video: Seth following the 5.8 squeeze chimney on Reed's Pinnacle [video:youtube] Summit of Higher Cathedral Spire [video:youtube] Climbing trip music montage [video:youtube] Gear Notes: Big cams and more big cams! Quote
PeakBeggar Posted October 21, 2010 Posted October 21, 2010 holy god that looks like too much fun! nice adventure compadre Quote
ryanhuetter Posted October 21, 2010 Posted October 21, 2010 Nice dude! That heat wave/rain storm weather was bumming me out too! At least you got some varied climbs in. Quote
wbk Posted October 22, 2010 Posted October 22, 2010 good set of routes! where is manana? want to check that out next time i'm down there. Lunatic Fringe is just so awesome! Way to get after it - really love that climb. How is the crux on the Surprise? Pretty tame or not so much? Quote
denalidevo Posted October 22, 2010 Author Posted October 22, 2010 Mañana is at Sentinel Creek - not in Supertopo, but in Reid (Falcon) guide. By far the best finger crack I've climbed - awesome ring locks! The Surprise .10a finger crack is sustained but gear is plentiful and bomber. FYI, the bolt on Werner's Ant Tree (the 5.10c alternate start) has been chopped and must be protected by small gear (it's fine). Quote
curtveld Posted October 22, 2010 Posted October 22, 2010 Nice sampler trip, looks like. The clearing storm shots in your Flickr album are great. Quote
denalidevo Posted October 24, 2010 Author Posted October 24, 2010 Bump - added video to this TR Quote
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