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[TR] The Valley / Tuolumne / Bishop - Recap: Two weeks in Yosemite 9/27/2010


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Trip: The Valley / Tuolumne / Bishop - Recap: Two weeks in Yosemite

 

Date: 9/27/2010

 

Trip Report:

Went south to The Valley for my (sixth!) annual Fall trip Sep 26 - Oct 10. Weather summary: heat wave, then stormy & wet, and finally, perfect.

 

Sep 27 - Oct 1: Yosemite - too hot, climbed in the shade, escaped to Tuolumne for a day.

  • Super Slide - II, 5.9 (soloed p1, led 3-5)
  • The Grack - I+, 5.6 (led p1, 3)
  • Trial by Fire - I, 5.8 OW/Chimney (led, onsite)
  • Cathedral Peak, SE Buttress - III, 5.7 as climbed (led p1, 3, 4, 5)
  • Harry Daley - I+, 5.8 (led p1-2)
  • Chouinard Crack - I, 5.7 (followed)
  • Little John Left - I, 5.8 OW (led, onsite)

Then it rained in The Valley for 5 days. We escaped to Bishop and tried to salvage things.

 

Oct 4 - 6: Owens River Gorge - sport climbing with the ever-present threat of thundershowers.

  • Abitarot - 5.10a (TR, clean)
  • Hardley Wallbanger - 5.10c (TR, clean)
  • Hungover - 5.11b (TR)
  • Child of Light - 5.9 (onsite)
  • Heart of the Sun - 5.9 (onsite)
  • Yellow Peril - 5.10c (TR, clean)
  • PG13 - 5.9 (onsite)
  • Warning Signs - 5.10d (TR, clean)
  • Valley 5.8 - 5.10a (onsite)
  • If I Told You I'd Have to Kill You - 5.11a (TR)

Oct 8-10: Weather normalized - back to The Valley for the final three days.

  • Reed's Direct / Reed's Regular - II, 5.9 (led p1 - 5.9 hands, p3 - 5.8 squeeze traverse)
  • Lunatic Fringe - I, 5.10c (followed, clean).
  • Moby Dick - I, 5.10a (led first 120+ ft, lowered off after running out of gear, thrashing up and then sliding down 15 ft. of OW to my last piece multiple times) ::skull::
  • Higher Spire, Regular Route - II, 5.9 (led p1, 3, 5). Awesome! :tup:
  • Werner's Ant Tree / The Surprise - II, 5.10c / 5.10a (led p2, 4)
  • Mañana - I, 5.10c (TR). Wicked overhanging off-finger crack!

Photos:

 

Kurt following pitch five 5.9 wide fingers crack on Super Slide

5043330740_a5ac0fa99a.jpg

 

Kurt following pitch four on Cathedral Peak

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Me atop Cathedral Peak

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Cathedral Peak from descent trail

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Olmstead Point panorama

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Uber-tight tarp setup to thwart the deluge

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Descending into the Middle Owens River Gorge

5055252156_83a10e5f29.jpg

 

Seth leading Abitarot

5054647009_0b11658ef5.jpg

 

The Great Wall of China

5057405569_6a9ec93101.jpg

 

Me leading Child of Light

5058048310_e4214a01b1.jpg

 

Mike leading If I Told You I'd Have to Kill You

5082217771_3037199952.jpg

 

Seth leading pitch 2, Reed's Direct

5082353421_df821a1a7e.jpg

 

Seth following the 5.8 squeeze chimney traverse, Reed's Regular

5082366043_bf00982602.jpg

 

Summit shot on Higher Spire

5083012736_6a65f3a2e1.jpg

 

Valley panorama from Higher Spire

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Seth at the .10c crux on Werner's Ant Tree

5083040716_12a20dc82c.jpg

 

Splitter fingers on Mañana

5083050338_bc813596ff.jpg

 

 

More photos: Yosemite Fall 2010 photo collection on Flickr

 

 

Video:

 

Seth following the 5.8 squeeze chimney on Reed's Pinnacle

[video:youtube]

 

Summit of Higher Cathedral Spire

[video:youtube]

 

Climbing trip music montage

[video:youtube]

 

 

Gear Notes:

Big cams and more big cams!

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Mañana is at Sentinel Creek - not in Supertopo, but in Reid (Falcon) guide. By far the best finger crack I've climbed - awesome ring locks! The Surprise .10a finger crack is sustained but gear is plentiful and bomber. FYI, the bolt on Werner's Ant Tree (the 5.10c alternate start) has been chopped and must be protected by small gear (it's fine).

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