JosephH Posted September 29, 2010 Author Posted September 29, 2010 You mean you'd headpoint it? Quote
Farrgo Posted September 29, 2010 Posted September 29, 2010 I certainly didn't see signs of chipping on Stone Rodeo when I was on it last season. Maybe its just because I got back from the Laruelwood but here's my two cents on Stone Rodeo. There are already bolts on it, they might as well be decent bolts. If someone is going to go to the extent of permanently altering the rock for fixed pro, they owe it to the climbing community that those pieces of pro adequately protect the pitch and are of good quality. What use are antiques? Currently those bolts are nothing but eyesores. I understand that many/most/all of those bolts may not have been placed by the FFA party (whoever they were) but they're there now. I hate to break it to all the Beatards but replacing worthless bolts on a 40' route at Beacon Rock isn't the worse thing in the world. In fact, getting some stronger climbers out at Beacon Rock is probably the best thing that could happen at that crag. There are so many routes in the 10-11+ range that would be high quality if only climbed and cleaned more often. What this crag needs is an influx of climbers not headed for the Corner, YW, JT or the like. I understand BR has a trad ethic, but honestly once the damage is done... the bolts should at least be decent so that the community gets full value out of them. It's no different between YW and SR. If YW was just a bunch of star-drives, they should be replaced as well. If a route developer decides fixed gear is needed, then it is their responsibility to see that the gear is adequate and the community's responsibility to see that it is maintained. There needs to both be a sense of obligation from route developers and responsibility from the climbing community. Rock is a shared resource and it needs to be treated as such. Quote
ivan Posted September 29, 2010 Posted September 29, 2010 Fine by me. Any ideas on getting in to the top of Fresh Squeeze to set up a TR? easy - climb to big ledge via dods or whatever, or just rap in from the trail - traverse at the level of big ledge over to wher ethe anchor is - good chance it's more than 30 meters from the top anchor to the windsurfer anchor squeeze box is the climb that needs to be cleaned of big branches -that oughta be easier and take you to the dastardly anchor above big ledge gonna be out there 2morrow w/ mike and might could be interested in setting it up, if you gonna be around Quote
JosephH Posted September 29, 2010 Author Posted September 29, 2010 Your going to headpoint FS on one hand and and get all up in arms about 'rules of climbing' and the ethics of rebolting three bad bolts on SR on the other? Curiouser and curiouser! Why, I think I'm going to have to look at the back of those blast tunnels again to make sure they aren't actually rabbit holes. Come to think of it, I do believe I saw a flurry of white head into the third tunnel just as I passed out the other day. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted September 29, 2010 Posted September 29, 2010 I might be out today Ivan, but have a youngster in tow so not sure today would be the day for it. Thanks for the beta, it looks like such a spectacular crack and location up there. Joseph, I'm not head pointing, dick pointing or anything like that. I got no ego to feed. I would just like to take a gander at the climb, and see whats there, clean some of the weeds out and maybe pull down on a section of it. I don't normally rap into anything, that would be......YOU!!! Ivan's the only dude I know who has even been up there in years. and he said the gear was crap for free climbing if I recall correctly? Farrgo, I agree with you completely dude! Thats why I was suggesting no chopping, just replace whats there so no controversy and the climb can get done again on a semi regular basis by some of us lesser mortals. Quote
LostCamKenny Posted September 29, 2010 Posted September 29, 2010 Fine, you asked. I have a problem, so I'm asking you not to touch it until Kenny has had a chance to lead it with the bolts that are existing there, to decide if they are OK or not. Please. Do not touch it till he OK's it. I'm not joking or kidding. can i aid it? Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted September 29, 2010 Posted September 29, 2010 Kenny, just don't take a.......................WHIPPER!!! Quote
JosephH Posted September 29, 2010 Author Posted September 29, 2010 I don't normally rap into anything, that would be......YOU!!! Where do you get this stuff from? Quote
pink Posted September 30, 2010 Posted September 30, 2010 I certainly didn't see signs of chipping on Stone Rodeo when I was on it last season. Maybe its just because I got back from the Laruelwood but here's my two cents on Stone Rodeo. There are already bolts on it, they might as well be decent bolts. If someone is going to go to the extent of permanently altering the rock for fixed pro, they owe it to the climbing community that those pieces of pro adequately protect the pitch and are of good quality. What use are antiques? Currently those bolts are nothing but eyesores. I understand that many/most/all of those bolts may not have been placed by the FFA party (whoever they were) but they're there now. I hate to break it to all the Beatards but replacing worthless bolts on a 40' route at Beacon Rock isn't the worse thing in the world. In fact, getting some stronger climbers out at Beacon Rock is probably the best thing that could happen at that crag. There are so many routes in the 10-11+ range that would be high quality if only climbed and cleaned more often. What this crag needs is an influx of climbers not headed for the Corner, YW, JT or the like. I understand BR has a trad ethic, but honestly once the damage is done... the bolts should at least be decent so that the community gets full value out of them. It's no different between YW and SR. If YW was just a bunch of star-drives, they should be replaced as well. If a route developer decides fixed gear is needed, then it is their responsibility to see that the gear is adequate and the community's responsibility to see that it is maintained. There needs to both be a sense of obligation from route developers and responsibility from the climbing community. Rock is a shared resource and it needs to be treated as such. so you're going to go to other crags and recruit better climbers??? maybe offer them a climbing scholarship i never understood why more people don't climb on the south side. who care about stone rodeo, the mystique has already been erased Quote
JosephH Posted September 30, 2010 Author Posted September 30, 2010 I don't know, it looms over my obvious shortcomings every time I walk down the trail to the point it almost seems like it's watching me as I go by. That may or may not be mystique, but it will pass for it until I run into something else with more mojo. Maybe we could just move it to the other side of Jensen's ridge where I wouldn't have to look at it every time I go climbing. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted September 30, 2010 Posted September 30, 2010 Replace them bolts Joseph and lets get on it. Take some WHIPPERS. I agree, it is a looming presence there right between Crusing and young Warriors, a unknown section of the crag for me. Quote
ivan Posted September 30, 2010 Posted September 30, 2010 Replace them bolts Joseph and lets get on it. Take some WHIPPERS. I agree, it is a looming presence there right between Crusing and young Warriors, a unknown section of the crag for me. word - been vainly hoping i'll someday be in good enough shape to take it on - oughta just go aid the fucking thing and scratch it off the list...sigh. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted October 2, 2010 Posted October 2, 2010 Ivan, if Joseph re-bolts it (correct terminology?), we should all take a few swings at freeing it. It might be one of those sleeper climbs that isn't as hard as it looks.....gulp! Joseph, whats your call? Final answer? Quote
froodish Posted October 2, 2010 Posted October 2, 2010 Was out having a lazy afternoon on the corner today and Joseph and (Shaun?) were out doing the deed. Thanks Joseph! Quote
denalidave Posted October 2, 2010 Posted October 2, 2010 But what are we going to argue about now??? Go BEATARDS, go! Quote
el jefe Posted October 2, 2010 Posted October 2, 2010 don't worry, dave, i'm sure this group won't have any trouble finding something to argue about. Quote
denalidave Posted October 2, 2010 Posted October 2, 2010 BTW, who ended up scoring LCK's cam off the second pitch of the corner? Quote
pink Posted October 3, 2010 Posted October 3, 2010 Was out having a lazy afternoon on the corner today and Joseph and (Shaun?) were out doing the deed. Thanks Joseph! who was the giver Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted October 3, 2010 Posted October 3, 2010 For you Beacon climbers, Rick and I went caving last week and had a blast in a long cave with many squeezes and crawls. Wild! Horizontal climbing~ Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted October 3, 2010 Posted October 3, 2010 hey, wheres da update on Stone Rodeo??? Did you fire it Joseph? Whats the goods? Hows it hanging? Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted October 4, 2010 Posted October 4, 2010 Ok, I forgot to say please Joseph. Please!!! I see 4 shiny new bolts going up the steep ramp area to the right of Cruising, but but both Rick and I thought Stone Rodeo went up thru the overhangs a little further right where there are some old bolts, so......I'm confused... Quote
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