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Posted
so what's the history on this route?

 

Bob McGown and I did the route, wayyy back in the 80s.

 

early 80's, nice send for back then. so you guy's have the first FFA?

 

Posted

I think the bolts are in the right spot. It is a little bouldery right off the deck but once you get a piece or two in, it should be a safe fall. Making sure the fixed gear is trustworthy is the main issue with that route.

Posted
I think the bolts are in the right spot. It is a little bouldery right off the deck but once you get a piece or two in, it should be a safe fall. Making sure the fixed gear is trustworthy is the main issue with that route.

Good to hear, that's what I'm doing. When I get done everything that's fixed on the route will be bomb one way or the other.

Posted
Yes on the ffa. We did it on aid and then added a bolt. there was only one at the time. Bob got it first then I .

Wayne, did you or Bob do the retrobolts, or know who did?

Posted
Yes on the ffa. We did it on aid and then added a bolt. there was only one at the time. Bob got it first then I .

Joseph. Care to comment?

I already did, if the dates are correct in Olson's book then Foster did the ffa. And now that pink mentioned free-soloing Jensens, I also recall he all but did that the next day semi-scaring me when I realized he only used like two pieces for the pitch off the actual ridge.

 

In the end does it really matter? What counts is it was an absolutely striking line for Bob and Wayne to have been working and it just happened to fit our roof sensibility at the time. It's stout even as an aid line and was visionary of them as a free one. We way more than likely wouldn't never have gotten on it if the bolt wasn't there; we thought we were doing an established line like any other and in many respects we were.

Posted
Yes on the ffa. We did it on aid and then added a bolt. there was only one at the time. Bob got it first then I .

Wayne, did you or Bob do the retrobolts, or know who did?

does it really matter, dood? you're gonna do the next retrobolting whether they are ok with it or not...

Posted

in fact, joe, here's a novel idea for you...

 

why don't you have as much balls as they did and go aid the route from the ground, replacing the bad bolts as you climb by using a hammer and a hand drill. i would consider that acceptable - even if it was you replacing the bolts!

Posted

No Kenny, I'm not going to do the next retrobolting, I'm going to rebolt it and check the pins and make sure either they are solid or replace them with something that is either pin or bolt. It will have the exact same number of fixed protection points it has now, in the same places they're at now. If there are any 'sides' in that rebolting then I can't imagine why, or what the objection could possible be, other than Kevin's complaint it needs more bolts. I have a pretty hard time believing either Farrgo or Eldiente who might actually climb it are going to have any complaints.

 

So if anyone does have a problem with me rebolting Stone Rodeo then speak up an explain exactly and specifically what your objection is. Kenny, why exactly would you have any problem whatsoever with rebolting it? Why do you think anyone would have any problem with it?

 

P.S. I did just go a aid half the thing in a downpour, with water streaming out of the crack. I stopped when I got to the really bad bolt or it would already be done. At this point it doesn't matter how it gets done, just that all the fixed protection on it is solid.

Posted
Yes on the ffa. We did it on aid and then added a bolt. there was only one at the time. Bob got it first then I .

Joseph. Care to comment?

I already did, if the dates are correct in Olson's book then Foster did the ffa. And now that pink mentioned free-soloing Jensens, I also recall he all but did that the next day semi-scaring me when I realized he only used like two pieces for the pitch off the actual ridge.

 

In the end does it really matter? What counts is it was an absolutely striking line for Bob and Wayne to have been working and it just happened to fit our roof sensibility at the time. It's stout even as an aid line and was visionary of them as a free one. We way more than likely wouldn't never have gotten on it if the bolt wasn't there; we thought we were doing an established line like any other and in many respects we were.

 

so let me get this straight, you are referencing tim olsons book???? now i'm really confused. now his book is so convenient for you :sick:

Posted
Not at all, if those dates on SR aren't correct then it's entirely possible my friend merely got the third free ascent of it.

 

 

 

Originally Posted By: JosephH

When we got on it we coincidentally and without realizing it had squeaked in after Bob had aided it, but before they freed it. There was a fixed wire and a couple of 1/4" bolts if I recall correctly, so it was a mixed line even then. But Foster did rings in college, was / is fearless to a fault, soloed a few 12s, and we lived for doing roofs so it wasn't much of a stretch for him. I was actually sketching on it way more following than he did on lead.

 

Edit: It would have been on my old rack that was later stolen so it would have been on nuts and original Friends of which I had a double sets. As I recall I freed up to the base of Silver Crow going out left from the Pipeline anchor after we finished Stone Rodeo. It was a good day and we hadn't seen each other in quite awhile.

 

Posted

from sunny and not a cloud in the sky too partly cloudy with a chance of showers :lmao::lmao::lmao: was it really worth mentioning in the first place joseph :noway:

 

 

 

don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows, out joseph mouth in form of hot air and up our asses like 40 grit sand paper :whistle:

 

Posted
Not at all, if those dates on SR aren't correct then it's entirely possible my friend merely got the third free ascent of it.

Originally Posted By: JosephH

When we got on it we coincidentally and without realizing it had squeaked in after Bob had aided it, but before they freed it. There was a fixed wire and a couple of 1/4" bolts if I recall correctly, so it was a mixed line even then. But Foster did rings in college, was / is fearless to a fault, soloed a few 12s, and we lived for doing roofs so it wasn't much of a stretch for him. I was actually sketching on it way more following than he did on lead.

 

Edit: It would have been on my old rack that was later stolen so it would have been on nuts and original Friends of which I had a double sets. As I recall I freed up to the base of Silver Crow going out left from the Pipeline anchor after we finished Stone Rodeo. It was a good day and we hadn't seen each other in quite awhile.

Your point?

Posted
.. out joseph mouth in form of hot air and up our asses like 40 grit sand paper

As always, feel free to point out when something I say about Beacon isn't either fact or clearly delineated as my opinion. And gee whiz, if the fact I do stuff out there or post here chaps your already hard-driven asses I'll take that as bonus points and see what I can do in the way of finding some 20-grit.

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