Stone Rodeo

[pink]

that's not a bad thing, you just gotta find the right girl

[pink]

So if anyone does have a problem with me rebolting Stone Rodeo then speak up an explain exactly and specifically what your objection is.

 

Fine, you asked. I have a problem, so I'm asking you not to touch it until Kenny has had a chance to lead it with the bolts that are existing there, to decide if they are OK or not.

 

Please. Do not touch it till he OK's it. I'm not joking or kidding.

 

Kenny, I can belay you on it Saturday. What say? Then you can tell JH next Monday to leave it be in it's original wahhh. BTW, no falls this time cause I don't know about these old fuckers. OK? no falls. Really.

___________________________________________________________________

 

You all know what the pup said when he wiped his butt with sandpaper?

 

"RUFF"

 

Hope that contributes to the sandpaper discussion.

 

funny thing is, joseph was right, there is 20 grit sand paper. I WAS MISTAKEN.

 

RUFF RUFF

[kevbone]

And just think....we were all so friendly to each other on the ledge on Friday night....

[chris]

If its not to late, my two cents are:

 

1. If the FFA added the bolts, leave them.

 

2. If the FFA team gave their blessings to have bolts added after their FFA, leave them.

 

3. If neither 1. nor 2. is the case, chop the extras and don't replace. That meets my definition of re-bolting.

[stevetimetravlr]

and if no one really knows who did the first free ascent.......?

[JosephH]

We do know it was either McGown or Foster depending on the date and both those ascents were done with the single high bolt. The additional lower two bolts were added after the FFA. Apparently know one knows by who. They were already in place by the time Olson did it according to him.

[stevetimetravlr]

Ok, so you know who possibly could have done the first ascent. So now there are a few more bolts then there were when it was first done, in leiu of what, pins?

so is it better to have a pin list for the climb?

[JosephH]

No, they weren't 'in leiu' of any pins, we didn't own any pins when we did it. The only pins that have ever been on the route are the two pins after the original high bolt.

[hemp22]

I think it's safe to say that those 2 bolts are there in lieu of the 2 really large nuts that you'd need otherwise.

 

I can't believe you guys are giving the man such a hard time about replacing a couple manky/rusty old bolts with new ones. All FA ambiguity aside, just replacing the existing ticking time-bombs is hardly an ethical issue - the only way it will alter anyone else's experience is that the new bolts should be a little less likely to catastrophically fail on the next person to fall on them...

[pink]

And just think....we were all so friendly to each other on the ledge on Friday night....

 

isn't everybody at beacon always friendly to each other???

[ivan]

the only solution is to cut the route in half w/ explosives i fear

[stevetimetravlr]

Anyone done the route that goes up the most amazing looking dihedral at Beacon? It starts directly above the Windsurfer anchors and soars upwards? It has some weeds in it and some pins and looks wild and very long and overhanging near the top.

[Farrgo]

It was chalked at the end of last season.

[ivan]

Anyone done the route that goes up the most amazing looking dihedral at Beacon? It starts directly above the Windsurfer anchors and soars upwards? It has some weeds in it and some pins and looks wild and very long and overhanging near the top.

sounds like yer talking about this'un:

 

that's fresh squeeze - did a tr w/ plenty of fine swear words but not too many cuss'n pictures a few years back: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=836352

 

would be happy to repeat it w/ you 8-ball, should you need a partner - if you want to free it, should start by tr'ing it (or eating a lot of fuckign wheaties) as leading it is really asking to die as the pro is shit for a long time and a fall will put you into the column top - also, the upper pitch looks good, but needs a hedge-clipper and probably a chisel to release from its vegatation-captation - the anchor at that point is kinda crap as i recall too, but it's not too hard to traverse into big ledge from there

[stevetimetravlr]

Thats the one. I thought the gear looked a little thin on it, and figured you had probably gotten it done Ivan, nice!

[kevbone]

the anchor at that point is kinda crap as i recall too,

 

You mean JH missed an anchor? Say it an't so.

[ivan]

the anchor at that point is kinda crap as i recall too,

 

You mean JH missed an anchor? Say it an't so.

seem to recall it's a beacon hybrid anchor - a bolt and a pin - think i didn't have a knife and couldn't cut out the old mank that was through the pin

[Farrgo]

Couldn't you just build one near the base of Windwalker?

[ivan]

sure - could clean out the crack too of the trees and use 1/2 inch cams above the current anchor

[JosephH]

the anchor at that point is kinda crap as i recall too,

You mean JH missed an anchor? Say it an't so.

Yeah, been slow to get the high anchors west of Dastardly. Been hoping Ivan would get them for me.

[stevetimetravlr]

What are we worried about chopping bolts on Stone Rodeo for, when there are gems like that still in the rough. Fresh Squeeze, that looks like a incredible route. I heard that Stone Rodeo was a chipped route, big controvery over it way back when. Is that really true or was someone pulling my leg?

[JosephH]

Who said it was chipped and a big controversy? Surely a person with that info would know who added the bolts.

[stevetimetravlr]

The man himself.

[JosephH]

Well, let's ask about that.

[stevetimetravlr]

Fine by me. Any ideas on getting in to the top of Fresh Squeeze to set up a TR?