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Posted

So, my wife has decided to start ice climbing again and since I gave away my ice tools and have been using hers the last couple of years that means I need a new pair. I have narrowed down my choices to the Black Diamond Viper and the new version of the Petzl Quark.

 

I will use the tools for winter alpine and mixed climbing and frozen waterfalls and am considering trying the leashless thing. (I have used various leashless tools for dry tool cragging, but never in the alpine or on waterfall routes).

 

What say the peanut gallery? Quark or Viper.

 

Thanks for you considered opinions.

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Posted

I own the current version of the vipers and had the chance to play with the new quarks at the shop this weekend.

 

I obviously haven't had a chance to get on any ice with the new Quarks. The swing feels fantastic. Really, really, fantastic. Better than the vipers for sure. Maybe even better than the Cobras.

 

I'm wary of the trigger. Seems like a good way to injure finger tendons.

 

BD picks are much easier to swap. Petzl picks seem to need less tuning out of the packaging. If you're even barely competent with a hand file it shouldn't be an issue.

 

Either one is fine for leashless. I don't think I've used leashes since my very first day of ice climbing. After some brutal screaming barfies in single digit temps, I haven't used leashes since. I'm quite happy with this arrangement.

 

There are some great deals out there on Vipers right now. Gonna be very hard to find deals on the new Quarks. The old Quarks I'm sure you can pick up for dirt, especially in the next month.

 

IMO, they're similar enough (especially for your intended usage) that I would just go with whatever you find a good deal on first. I don't think you'll be disappointed with either.

 

One last thought: how much mixed are you going to be doing? For mixed, the Nomic remains supreme. For waterfall ice, it still stands supreme. The Quark shines in the alpine environment. Figure out where you'll be spending the bulk of your time. Maybe you should be looking at the Nomic?

 

 

Posted

 

One last thought: how much mixed are you going to be doing? For mixed, the Nomic remains supreme. For waterfall ice, it still stands supreme. The Quark shines in the alpine environment. Figure out where you'll be spending the bulk of your time. Maybe you should be looking at the Nomic?

 

 

That you for your considered opinion. When I say mixed, I mean the origninal meaning of mixed - 'alpine mixed' not bolted sport climbs. I have placed enough pitons and hacked out enough belay ledges and bollards to appreciate a proper hammer and adze.

Posted (edited)

I went with the Vipers purely because I found a pair on sale for $90.00 off of retail. More than enough of a savings to justify buying the Black Diamond spinner umbilicals. Looks like this old climber is joining the 21 century, already in progress.

Edited by danielpatricksmith

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