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Trip: Mount Stuart - Upper North Ridge

 

Date: 8/28/2010

 

Trip Report:

Last weekend, racsom and I headed up the Upper North Ridge of Stuart with Brandon and Nathan, a couple of students in the class we teach, for their graduation climb. The forecast called for cold temps and possibility of precipitation. Well, we got some- fortunately we were nice and high and it came down as snow/hail. In the morning we found the route in pretty good shape, with a little snow and ice to keep things interesting.

 

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Note that the Gendarme bypass looks pretty awful right now.

 

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Great work, Brandon and Nathan, on a very worthy grad climb! They led the whole way and it was especially impressive the way they slayed the Gendarme pitches. What an awesome way to climb this route.

 

One thing I really appreciate about climbing is the seasons. Just when I am getting tired of warm rock, something comes along to remind me what is just around the corner. Time to tune the skis and sharpen the ice tools...

 

Gear Notes:

Rope

Rack to 4" with a couple doubles .75-3

Bivy gear and puffy jackets

Crampons and ice axe seem necessary to me

 

Approach Notes:

Glacier is bare and hard, the last 30 feet before scrambling up to the notch was pretty darn icy.

 

Even as cold as it was we found a trickle of water through the rocks in the middle of the glacier.

 

There is a LOT of snow in the gulley leading to the notch.

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