fishstick Posted December 13, 2001 Posted December 13, 2001 Why is it that people think it's OK to set up tope ropes on the initial pitch of a (popular) multi-pitch ice climb, when they'd never, ever do the same on a popular multi-pitch rock route? Two cases in point are The Plum and ICBC. Loose Lady has a similar problem, although it's often people struggling to lead the initial grade two pitches while seemingly oblivious to the fact that the climb ahead is grade four (a friend insists that someone fired in 10 or 12 screws on one of the intro pitches last year). I can understand the desire to find easy terrain to learn on, but it seems very discourteous not to let others lead through to the acreage above. Just a thought. GB Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 13, 2001 Posted December 13, 2001 I think its ok. Maybe I will fire in 20 screws on first pitch (approach if you ask me) to Loose Lady. I also tred 1st pitch of IcyBC. So what? Lead it shortly after. Just try and move me off a climb..... See what happens. [ 12-13-2001: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote
Dru Posted December 13, 2001 Posted December 13, 2001 Dunno about TRing but only about one party in 10 ever makes it to the top of the Plum anyways. Route is long and days is short. Marble Canyon is about only place near Lillooet it is possible to walk to top of 1st pitch hence TRing. maybe we need to dynamite the ledge off or import some geography from haffner creek for the hordes. I vote we get Lyle to set up a leaky pipe and make some farmed ice near the Terzaghi Dam outlet. Quote
epb Posted December 13, 2001 Posted December 13, 2001 I agree Fish. That shit is whack. However, in their defense the number of good ice routes are much more limited to that of rock. If some one is toproping the first pitches though, they should always give way to someone who wishes to lead it...in my opinion, and they usually will from my experience. It's not like they have to remove their anchor and fuck off there toprope, they just have to sit back for a half an hour or whatever while those desireing to led it pass them by. That's just the breaks of being a beginner...like caveman. Quote
erik Posted December 13, 2001 Posted December 13, 2001 (spray) the plum was the first real ice climb that wallstein and i ever did. and i would say that route is what got me real excited about ice in general. it rulz thanks kai! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 13, 2001 Posted December 13, 2001 Yes I am a beginner. I invite epb to remove me from a climb. I would bet he gets a big fucking axe in his cheek as well as a hammer in his brain. Quote
fishstick Posted December 13, 2001 Author Posted December 13, 2001 I'm not saying one should be "removed" from a climb, but rather, a degree of courtesy may be in order. For example we went to ICBC last year and a party of four had a rope hanging on the first pitch. No one was climbing, but when I went to lead the pitch, two quickly scurried to the foot of the climb and tied in. After we walked away (and after the climber ascended perhaps 15 feet), they lowered off and rejoined their friends for a break. We returned after 10 minutes of inactivity on the pitch, and once again they tied in… It seems like a rather selfish way to spend a day "in the hills". GB Quote
BigWallBigBallsRocky Posted December 13, 2001 Posted December 13, 2001 Fishschtick, Walk around to the top of the first pitch, untie their anchor, throw the rope down, then climb the second and third pitch. When you leave make sure you leave a big brown coiler on the hood of their car. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 13, 2001 Posted December 13, 2001 quote: Originally posted by fishstick: I'm not saying one should be "removed" from a climb, but rather, a degree of courtesy may be in order.For example we went to ICBC last year and a party of four had a rope hanging on the first pitch. No one was climbing, but when I went to lead the pitch, two quickly scurried to the foot of the climb and tied in. After we walked away (and after the climber ascended perhaps 15 feet), they lowered off and rejoined their friends for a break. We returned after 10 minutes of inactivity on the pitch, and once again they tied in… It seems like a rather selfish way to spend a day "in the hills". GB Sounds like a bunch of wankers. I would simply get hostile. You must not be intimidating enough. Start leading and chop their ropes up What can one expect in such a busy area though. The yuppies are ice climbing and I am one of them. Hehehhe. Quote
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