Young Warriors

[kevbone]

P5 is fine, you just want to be sure and do the Opdycke variation straight up and left of the last bolt (over the angled fin) continuing straight up and definitely not bail out right at the bolt which will put you face-to-face with the rock I'd recommend people stay as far away from as possible.

Can you have an Opdycke variation on an Opdycke climb? Would someone help an uninformed fella out?

 

 

Took the words right out of my mouth

[JosephH]

Well, given probably only half the people do p5 at all, and of those that do probably under half of them do it via the fin. So I'd say people voting with their feet have rendered it a variation with only some of the people who get on YW bothering to do it at all. The exit-stage-right there is a lot like the exit-stage-left on p4.

[froodish]

Did YW for the first time on Friday. Really fun outing. I particularly liked the 2nd pitch.

 

I'd agree with the consensus (p1: 5.8, p2: 5.8/5.9, p3: 5.9, p4: 5.10a [one move].) Got a good look at the block by the temp anchors above the rockfall scar - scary that. Either head straight up from the 4p belay to the notch, or head left out the ramp, then up past the pin and bolt and then straight up the fin.

 

Thanks to all who helped with the rockfall cleanup!

Edited September 6, 2010 by froodish

[kevbone]

Did YW for the first time on Friday. Really fun outing. I particularly liked the 2nd pitch.

 

I'd agree with the consensus (p1: 5.8, p2: 5.8/5.9, p3: 5.9, p4: 5.10a [one move].) Got a good look at the block by the temp anchors above the rockfall scar - scary that. Either head straight up from the 4p belay to the notch, or head left out the ramp, then up past the pin and bolt and then straight up the fin.

 

 

Nice.....dont forget, YW's has 5 pitches. You only graded 4.

[froodish]

Ahh, right - I sorta figure you're on the Corner for the 5th pitch. Depending upon how you go, p5 is 5.6/5.7 I'd say.

[LostCamKenny]

Ahh, right - I sorta figure you're on the Corner for the 5th pitch. Depending upon how you go, p5 is 5.6/5.7 I'd say.

going right and up to the pin and the bolt are 5.7 moves at their hardest. it may only be about 35 - 50 feet of climbing that is different than doing the last pitch of the corner, but if you do it all in on long pitch then it adds a different feel to the pitch - totally different feel than when doing it as the se corner... imo

 

good to see you out steve! we were gonna follow you guys up the rest of the route but figured that the route is comfortable for three to climb as a team, but if we caught you guys up it might have gotten cramped. did you lead any of the route or did kendall take the sharp end?

[froodish]

Good to see you too Kenny - we would have made room for you at the belays :-)

 

Kendall led all the bizness - having gotten blown off it on Thursday he was eager, and me, not so much after pedalling from Sellwood to his crib in NE before heading out to Bacon. I led just the 5th.

 

Cheers,

 

-S

[kevbone]

Kenny...you climbed YW? Wow....I didnt see that coming.

[LostCamKenny]

Kenny...you climbed YW? Wow....I didnt see that coming.

kev are you gonna be out on the evening of the 24th? i think dd and i are gonna climb up with our gear - though he might see this and think it is the first time he is hearing such a plan