[TR] Boston Peak - South Face 8/20/2010

[Dallas kloke]

Trip: Boston Peak - South Face

 

Date: 8/20/2010

 

Trip Report:

Jill wanted to climb Boston Peak as part of her goal to do

the 100 highest in the state. My only ascent of Boston was back in 1962 with the Skagit Alpine Club. The descent of the chossy peak was pretty scary back then as we down climbed it.

Reaching the base of the peak, we ascended pretty much the rappel route. This didn't seem like the route back in 1962; very steep and also loose. We did rope up and I was able to put some reasonable pro in. The summit register is impressive! Three raps

of 50 to 75 feet gets one to the base. I found a snow picket in a notch at the start. If you lost it, let me know.

 

 

Gear Notes:

8mm - 60m rope, 5 stoppers, 3 slings.

 

Approach Notes:

From the trail head to summit and back, 12 1/2 hours.

I hate that 3.7 mile switch backing trail on the way out!

[rocketparrotlet]

Nice! I climbed Sahale yesterday, looked at Boston Peak and said, "Screw that." Way to go!

[Le Piston]

Thanks, now I don't feel like such a whimp, not climbing because of cold hands, deteriorating weather, and a high reading on the choss-o-meter.

[clpainter]

Any pics from Boston Peak? Planning to do Boston/Sahale/Sharkfin next weekend and looking for recent beta...

[Le Piston]

I didn't go over and climb it, but hopefully these are helpful.

[clpainter]

Thanks Le Piston!

[Trent]

Dallas: Wow! 48 years between acsents! Your memory for choss must be good!

[goatboy]

When folks climb Sharkfin this late in the season, what is the route of choice to get from the Quien Sabe up onto the upper snowfield to access the start of the South East Ridge?

 

The standard couloir (as per Nelson) that I climbed years ago in June would certainly be melted out and broken by now. Do folks usually gain that shelf via gullies further to the west?

[KaskadskyjKozak]

When folks climb Sharkfin this late in the season, what is the route of choice to get from the Quien Sabe up onto the upper snowfield to access the start of the South East Ridge?

 

The standard couloir (as per Nelson) that I climbed years ago in June would certainly be melted out and broken by now. Do folks usually gain that shelf via gullies further to the west?

 

I climbed Sharkfin in mid-August a few years ago, and I believe we went up the standard couloir. It was bone try from the glacier up to the notch where you rope-up.