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finian

first ascent [TR] Darrington, Squire Creek Pass - Pass the Nut's (FA) 7/25/2010

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Trip: Darrington, Squire Creek Pass - Pass the Nut's (FA)

 

Date: 7/25/2010

 

Trip Report:

I finally got up to Squire Creek Pass with Karen and Carsten to climb the wall to the north of the pass. Of course I forgot the camera:-(

I wanted to try to climb it ground up and clean.

We took a line straight up the center of the wall, starting with an amazing steep knob field with a dirty crack in the middle of it (5.9). An easy ramp leads to a perfect 5.8 finger crack in a shallow corner and then a comfy belay ledge. The second pitch traverses right under some bushes and then up, with a slabby crux. The moves are probably 5.9 but with no pro at the crux I'd swear it was 10a :-) The third pitch goes left around a steep bulge on a really cool natural stair case and then up cracks and flakes to the top (5.7).

Descent is a scramble down the back side.

 

Although there was surprisingly fun climbing it's not the family friendly route I was hoping for. There are a lot of expanding and detached flakes and you have to be really careful where you go and where you put gear. Some of the route is pretty run out and a lot of the gear you do get is marginal. I don't have any plans to put in anchors or bolts. If someone wants to put bolts in have at it. I climbed it the way I wanted to.

 

I'm calling it "Pass the Nuts" in reference to Squire Creek Pass and the fact that you have to be nuts to climb those flakes ;-)

 

All in all I'm really glad I finally got up there and did it. It was an accomplishment for me and the view from the top just blew me away.

 

Gear Notes:

00 tcu up to #4 C4. doubles on micro, fingers and single or doubles on hands depending on how much you want to carry up there.

60 meter half ropes.

 

Approach Notes:

South on Mt Loop Hwy from Darrington 2 miles, then right on the forest service road 6 miles to the Eight Mile Creek trailhead. Hike past Three O'clock rock to Squire Creek Pass (5 miles total).

From the pass bush whack north and a little west to the boulder field at the base of the wall. Follow the base north several hundred yards to the knob field.

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Let me guess...,the view from the top included all of Squire Creek Valley and down to Exfoliatio Dome. That would be quite a view! Congratulations on an FA that people have been looking at for years! Way to go!!!! Darrington has a lot more to offer than 3 O'clock rock.

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Very Cool!

Rainman is correct in his assertion.

There is a lot to offer in the valleys for anyone with a taste for adventure.

Way to go!

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