keenwesh Posted July 25, 2010 Posted July 25, 2010 Trip: Prusik Peak - Stanley-Bergner Date: 7/22/2010 Trip Report: Spent 3 days in the Enchantments, went in Snow Creek TH and spent a leisurely day hiking in to Temple Lake. I found a copy of 2001: a space Odyssey on the side of the trail above SCW when I stopped to look up at the Pressure chamber (that thing looks heinous!) I read the entire book that afternoon and evening, so intense! Temple lake The bugs were nonexistant the first night, but that didn't last long.They came out in full force for days 2 and 3, my arms and back are still swollen from bites! Day 2 we got up late and strolled up to the base of the S face I ran around the corner and looked up at Der Sportsman, someday! first pitch really fun climbing! with a short section of friendly offwidth to prep for what comes higher. I used the #4 a lot on this climb! the chockstone squeeze is really tight, but on the plus side the belay above it is nice and comfy, and provides a perfect viewing platform to watch your old dad squirm and cuss his way through. the squeeze chimney pitch blows if your 6'6" I got to the fixed pin and proceeded to aid thrutch my way up the last ~10-15 feet. maybe if your smaller you could do some heel toeing or something but I was just stuck. next time I do this route I'm bringing a really small partner who can fire the rope up there... getting stoked! Fun up to this point... getting harder... didn't get any pics of me deep in the slot cause I was shamelessly screaming "taaaakkkeee!!!" and obscenities. last pitch was fun on top and out of water plus the bugs had followed us up each pitch so getting gnawed on too!! Stoked! thanks dad for a great trip! Gear Notes: blue alien to #4 camalot, doubles from .75 to 2 C4. got a early birthday present of 2 offset TCU's, they worked pretty well up at the top pitch in the pinscars. Approach Notes: hike a long ways carrying both the rope and the rack while your dad puts along slowly behind, wait for him to catch up every few miles. Quote
Drederek Posted July 26, 2010 Posted July 26, 2010 Nice trip and TR! Looks like mostly just a few scattered snopatches left? Hope you don't get too big of a belay penalty for calling yer dad slow Quote
BirdDog Posted July 26, 2010 Posted July 26, 2010 Nice. That one is on my list. How long did it take you on the actual climb? Quote
Rafael_H Posted July 26, 2010 Posted July 26, 2010 Nice! Could you please estimate how long it took to walk up to Prusik from Snow Creek PL? Thanks Quote
keenwesh Posted July 26, 2010 Author Posted July 26, 2010 we didn't bring a watch so I don't know the specific time, but we left snow creek a little after 8 am and I had time to read all of 2001 before it got dark, we were not hiking super fast but I bet it took around 5 hours? in... as for the climb itself we were really slow, 4 or 5 hours on route maybe... my dad couldn't do it without me, he kept mumbeling "I'm too old for this..."! Quote
KAB Posted July 27, 2010 Posted July 27, 2010 Great pics. Curious, how much snow did you find on the North slopes during the descent? Thanks, Kevin Quote
keenwesh Posted July 27, 2010 Author Posted July 27, 2010 quite a bit, after the last rap you have to traverse a steep snowfield all the way to the W ridge notch with intermittent exposed rocks along the way, also horrendous clouds of bugs getting blown up from the lake, teakettle or fryingpan or something like that? also theres a thank god snow patch after the first rap off the summit as you descend to the 2nd rap anchors. Quote
jshamster Posted July 27, 2010 Posted July 27, 2010 was up there two days ago. rapping n. face was pretty lame/time consuming. i would probably rap/downclimb west ridge next time. it was something like five single rope raps to easy snow traverse back to west ridge notch. Quote
keenwesh Posted July 27, 2010 Author Posted July 27, 2010 wouldn't you have to downclimb the friction pitch? I agree that the W ridge descent would be nicer but is there tat to rap off or do you have to downclimb everything? I did the W ridge a year ago and I don't remember seeing any webbing on route. Quote
jshamster Posted July 27, 2010 Posted July 27, 2010 there's a couple of stations to get past the top & the friction pitch. Quote
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