Beta for W. Ridge Mt. Stuart - conditions?

[denalidevo]

Planning a trip up the West Ridge of Mount Stuart this Fri - anyone know if an axe and 'pons are necessary with the unusually late snow pack this year?

 

Thanks!

[kevbone]

It’s always a good idea....you have a nice glacier to come down on the other side any time of year.

[denalidevo]

Do you mean the Cascadian Couloir? Thought that was a snowfield.

 

It’s always a good idea....you have a nice glacier to come down on the other side any time of year.

[fenderfour]

I bet he's talking about The Sherpa Glacier. Not a great descent option for the W Ridge.

[kevbone]

I have climbed Stuart three times and have stepped onto a small snow field/glacier every time on the decent. It is just over the east summit. I have not found a safe way around it. I did rapell through some super loose and scary rock to the left of it once. I would have rather had my crampons on to just walk down it.

[punk_rocker333]

Is the Sherpa Couloir descent doable right now?

[denalidevo]

Thanks - some trip reports I've read mention steep snow just past the east summit, others don't.

 

I have climbed Stuart three times and have stepped onto a small snow field/glacier every time on the decent. It is just over the east summit. I have not found a safe way around it. I did rapell through some super loose and scary rock to the left of it once. I would have rather had my crampons on to just walk down it.

[Off_White]

Late season you can do that route in tennies without an axe, but personally I'd take boots and an axe right now. You'll likely have steep snow on that slope after the false summit this time of year, especially given the snowpack this year. You could probably do just fine with an axe and no crampons, but hopefully someone with recent experience will chime in with info rather than speculation.

 

edited to add: check out the current Stuart Range Traverse TR, looks like those folks descended with tennies and a nut tool, though YMMV.

 

 

Edited July 20, 2010 by Off_White

[denalidevo]

Think I'll bring my aluminium 'pons but go sans axe - I'll have a approach pole w/ me. Thanks.

 

Late season you can do that route in tennies without an axe, but personally I'd take boots and an axe right now. You'll likely have steep snow on that slope after the false summit this time of year, especially given the snowpack this year. You could probably do just fine with an axe and no crampons, but hopefully someone with recent experience will chime in with info rather than speculation.

 

edited to add: check out the current Stuart Range Traverse TR, looks like those folks descended with tennies and a nut tool, though YMMV.

 

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Crampons but no axe sounds like a good way to get yerself on something steep with no way out. I'd go the other way and just bring the axe if it were me. The snow as of last weekend would take steps with a little work and your axe will keep you from taking too much of a ride. Besides, an aluminum axe is lighter than aluminum crampons. :-)

[rfoster]

Took ax and crampons and used both last weekend on West Ridge. Crossed several steep snow patches on the route. There's a hard layer just below the softer surface that made me glad to have both. Climbed same route last year at about the same time of year (a couple of weeks later) and there is a lot more snow this year.