WWII Wall

[RICHARD_CILLEY]

TR soloed Orgasmitron and the 12a to the right of it yesterday.The 12a is doable in its present condition and I would recomend it as a rope solo not as a lead.Anyone here done that.Looks like thereis new activity in the area.New routes, new anchors etc. Any info?

Edited July 17, 2010 by RICHARD_CILLEY

[bwwakaranai]

I have a non-related question. When you top-rope solo somthing hard what device do you use? I use the mini traxion but I always feel like I should back it up on the the other side of the rope with a prusik or somthing. This makes it a pain in the ass to pull it up when in a lousy position. Somtimes I will just throw a loop on a bite and clip it through a tough section but this also seems clunky. Im curious what works for others or if people go without the back up altogether and if they do, how safe is it. Thanks,

-B

Edited July 16, 2010 by bwwakaranai

[JosephH]

Just as an aside, and to keep the confusion level down, I generally use the phrase "roped soloing" or "roped soloed" for lead roped solo free climbing and "TR soloing" and "aid soloing" for those activities.

 

Either way it sounds like you were kicking some ass...

[Rad]

I use a trango cinch and have myself on a long leash to a prussik on a second rope. Probably overkill, but it's safe. The problem with the prussik on the same line is that it's difficult to move up and down as you know.

 

Another backup, though a bit more sketchy, is to tie a beefy knot in the line you're on and clip a small locking biner (or two) on the rope. That way if the device somehow fails or comes off (don't know how this would happen) then you'd slide down the rope until the biner hit the beefy know. Have never tested this, thank goodness. It does stay out of your way. Just make sure to tie the knot at a point so it will keep you from hitting anything nasty.

 

I look forward to hearing what smarter folks have to say.

[Josh_HC]

rcnw.net has a topo.

 

josh

Edited July 17, 2010 by Josh_HC

[Edlinger]

Most of the folks I know only (including myself) "rope solo" on the alpine big rigs. I'm sure he was sussing ze' moves on TR solo. To Josh_HC please edit your post and remove the new route info. I am told we have a gentlemen's agreement with the land managers to not report any new route activity in the greater Mount SI proper or WW2 areas. If we publish (online or in print) we will lose access. Some of my buddies have done lines on the large walls of Mount Si and WW2 and have told me this. I have not opened any routes personally at WW2. Remember land mangers read this site.

Thanks.

[JosephH]

Not sure what an 'alpine big rig' is, but all my 'roped soloing' is lead free climbing. There is endless discussion on 'TR soloing' on Supertopo and here for that matter if you search google with that phrase.

[andyf]

To Josh_HC please edit your post and remove the new route info. I am told we have a gentlemen's agreement with the land managers to not report any new route activity in the greater Mount SI proper or WW2 areas. If we publish (online or in print) we will lose access. Some of my buddies have done lines on the large walls of Mount Si and WW2 and have told me this.

 

I have to think this stems from the Mt. Si NRCA Public Use Plan (1997). I took part in the development of this plan when I was an Access Fund volunteer. The Plan has some ambiguity, but I don't believe it puts a restriction on new route activity at WWII, which is lumped in with the "Little Si" areas under the Plan. This is, in fact, exactly what we discussed during the public workshops on the Plan. It's on the ground impacts (trails and staging/belay areas) that need to be minimized at WWII.

 

On Mt. Si proper, climbing is much more...regulated.

 

Here's what the Plan says, in relevant part. Don't attribute the factual assertions in the last paragraph to me:

 

. . . .

 

1. Allow recreational rock climbing only on Little Si in designated areas.

2. New climbing routes are allowed within designated areas only.

3. Continue working with the climbing community to increase stewardship of the NRCA.

4. Continue to monitor the area for environmental impacts.

 

. . . .

 

Currently, rock climbing is focused in five areas. Three of the areas are grouped together on the Little Si trail. [...] The other two areas, Canopy Crag and World Wall II, are isloated areas east of the trail. Impacts here are presently minimal and increased use will result in soil compaction, erosion and trampled vegetation, especially at World Wall II. These areas should be carefully monitored for damage from increased use.

 

In contrast to the high use at Little Si, less than a half dozen rock climbers climb the face of Mount Si. Climbing activity may have an impact on mountain goats and peregrine falcons that use this area. Due to the nature of the rock on Mount Si, extensive "cleaning" of the rock occurs. This results in the climber removing large rocks and debris to make the area safe for climbing. This is a safety concern for neighborhoods and hikers below the climbing. However, climbing is the only way to monitor and study wildlife (mountain goats, raptors) and climbing here should be alowed by permission of land owner for monitoring purposes.

 

(Emphasis added.)

Edited July 22, 2010 by andyf

[Josh_HC]

andy,

thanks for the confirmation about bolting. I researched the bolting issue years ago and thought it ok. I didnt know if anything changed. I bolted a great line in between the sickness and paradise lost. It is about 12d to the half way point(1st set of anchors) the extension is a couple grades harder. The other line is to the right of the sickness, it goes straight up and right through the middle of orgasmitron and heads out right. it is about 12c.... on another note... there is also development at the lost exit 38 cave. the steepest rock around.

josh

[Edlinger]

The "lost" exit 38 cave you speak of seeps 11 months of the year many years. If you've found it dry as of the last few years, have some short term fun and if you find yourself or your buddies drilling away, although it can be difficult to find, please use stainless hangers, stainless bolts, stainless chains, and stainless screwlinks so you aren't just leaving trash behind that will have to be erased later.