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Trip: Olympics - Warrior - SW summit, Rt 1

 

Date: 7/11/2010

 

Trip Report:

Kitsap Branch of the Mountaineers trip - 9:30 from Upper Dungeness TH. Seen route descriptions from class 3 to class 5 for one pitch but unprotectable. Weather was stunning, warm with cool breeze. Started at 5:45am. Snow most of the way with some minor talus/scree crossings. Lots of snow up here for this time of year. Made our way to the saddle between the peaks around 9am. Worked up to the face of the summit block. Ran a line straight up and set up anchor (new slings and rings now in place). Definite class 4 for 20'. Others prusiked up to belay. Easy scramble left to summit. Rappeled from aforesaid anchor. Great trip.

 

Gear Notes:

Two ropes, axes.

 

Approach Notes:

Amended Mtnrs route to the following: left trail at 1st major creek S of park boundary (4700'). Ascended snow, dirt, scree toward route diagonally S in open. Turn up first major/wide snow or scree gully. This gully will intersect the main chute to the saddle referred to in the route description about 500' above the tarn. Continue to saddle from here. Climbing route: Climb snow to ridge crest S of saddle. From the ridge rocks climb and scramble up from here. Use of a safety line/prusiks up to the rappel station made efficient for followers. Scramble up left, then right toward the easily accessible summit.

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