johndavidjr Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 Probably this made the rounds & I missed it. An engineer performs drop tests on nylon & dyneema slings & implies that clipping climber directly to anchor with sling is sometimes potentially fatal. http://www.dmmclimbing.com/video.asp?id=5 Raises other questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 Raises other questions. why not just use a clove hitch in the rope that you are already tied into? easily adjustable, dynamic, and you don't need another peice of gear. naw, that would be too easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfinley Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 Because tying a clove hitch in the dark with gloves on when you're half frozen is not as easy as clipping a biner. Likewise when you're rapping down a route you are not tied into the rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 I watched the video and didn't really see anything that was new, here is what I got from it: - Nylon is not very elastic. - Dyneema is even less elastic. - Tying a knot in Dyneema halves it's strength (I believe similar is true with nylon). - If you anchor in with either of these inelastic materials, you SHOULD NOT put yourself in a position to fall upon the anchor. Even falling 2 feet can put a huge amount of force on the system. - All the forces at which slings failed this test are above the point where pro and human bodies start to break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 You should see my friend's video. He bar tacked a sling with duct tape and took leader falls on it (obviously under controlled environments- I.E.- top rope backup.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 You should see my friend's video. He bar tacked a sling with duct tape and took leader falls on it (obviously under controlled environments- I.E.- top rope backup.) ?? wtf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted June 16, 2010 Share Posted June 16, 2010 You should see my friend's video. He bar tacked a sling with duct tape and took leader falls on it (obviously under controlled environments- I.E.- top rope backup.) What was the purpose? I suppose I've done wierder things, "just to see what happens" but I'm hoping this isn't in preperation for some plan 'B' lol. Damn, I used to just check rap anchors for sound material and solid placement....now I have to start eying all of those weird duct tape wrappings I've been seeing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndavidjr Posted June 16, 2010 Author Share Posted June 16, 2010 That a 120cm fall can break slings -- maybe I forgot? Vid doesn't claim to make/show new discoveries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted June 16, 2010 Share Posted June 16, 2010 I also think it's worth mentioning that falls as severe as those in the test are nearly impossible in the real world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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