sling video

[johndavidjr]

Probably this made the rounds & I missed it.

 

An engineer performs drop tests on nylon & dyneema slings & implies that clipping climber directly to anchor with sling is sometimes potentially fatal.

 

http://www.dmmclimbing.com/video.asp?id=5

 

Raises other questions.

[LostCamKenny]

Raises other questions.

why not just use a clove hitch in the rope that you are already tied into? easily adjustable, dynamic, and you don't need another peice of gear. naw, that would be too easy

[wfinley]

Because tying a clove hitch in the dark with gloves on when you're half frozen is not as easy as clipping a biner. Likewise when you're rapping down a route you are not tied into the rope.

[counterfeitfake]

I watched the video and didn't really see anything that was new, here is what I got from it:

 

- Nylon is not very elastic.

- Dyneema is even less elastic.

- Tying a knot in Dyneema halves it's strength (I believe similar is true with nylon).

- If you anchor in with either of these inelastic materials, you SHOULD NOT put yourself in a position to fall upon the anchor. Even falling 2 feet can put a huge amount of force on the system.

- All the forces at which slings failed this test are above the point where pro and human bodies start to break.

[summitchaserCJB]

You should see my friend's video. He bar tacked a sling with duct tape and took leader falls on it (obviously under controlled environments- I.E.- top rope backup.)

[rob]

You should see my friend's video. He bar tacked a sling with duct tape and took leader falls on it (obviously under controlled environments- I.E.- top rope backup.)

 

?? wtf

[spotly]

You should see my friend's video. He bar tacked a sling with duct tape and took leader falls on it (obviously under controlled environments- I.E.- top rope backup.)

 

What was the purpose? I suppose I've done wierder things, "just to see what happens" but I'm hoping this isn't in preperation for some plan 'B' lol. Damn, I used to just check rap anchors for sound material and solid placement....now I have to start eying all of those weird duct tape wrappings I've been seeing.

[johndavidjr]

That a 120cm fall can break slings -- maybe I forgot?

 

Vid doesn't claim to make/show new discoveries.

[counterfeitfake]

I also think it's worth mentioning that falls as severe as those in the test are nearly impossible in the real world.