[TR] Colchuck Peak - North Buttress Couloir 6/12/2010

[pac man]

Trip: Colchuck Peak - North Buttress Couloir

 

Date: 6/12/2010

 

Trip Report:

Longer trip report HERE

 

Overview of Colchuck's North Buttress Couloir with our route in green and the where we think the remainder of the route goes shown in red

 

We woke up bright and early for a one day trip to Colchuck's North Buttress Couloir. After hiking the trail to the lake, we realized we did not get an early enough start for the temps and our speed. Nearly all of the North Buttress Couloir was already getting sun by 6am.

 

Moraine with entrance of North Buttress Couloir in center of photo (~6:15 am)

 

After tying our approach shoes up in a tree and climbing the moraine, we were making our way across the ridge crest of the moraine (~7:15 am), staying right to avoid the softening sun exposed snow on the left of the crest. This took us climber's right of a rock band where we traversed steep snow slopes above the rock band to enter the couloir approximately 1/4 of the way up by our best guess.

 

Traversing steep snow slopes above rock band towards North Buttress Couloir proper

 

At about this time (8ish) the bottom of the couloir had been sun exposed for ~2 hours, the top of the couloir probably exposed for an extra hour, the temps felt around 65F, there were signs of previous snow sluffing from steep couloirs, and the steep slopes had approximately 6-8 inches of corn snow, so we decided to bail. We down-climbed ~50ft climber's right of the North Buttress Couloir and intersected the couloir.

 

 

Down-climbing 50 ft climber's right of the North Buttress Couloir

 

Looking up the North Buttress Couloir

 

We continued down-climbing the North Buttress Couloir to easier ground and glissaded back to the lake and the ever-increasing hordes of people coming up to the lake on the trail (we probably passed 50+ people on the way down).

 

If/when we try this route again, we'll probably stay at the lake to make sure we hit the couloir early enough.

 

Gear Notes:

Brought small alpine rack and pickets, used a 1" cam

 

Approach Notes:

Wore tennis shoes to 100 vertical feet below Colchuck Lake where we encountered 100% snow coverage

[mountainsloth]

Wow, snow is melting quick up there.

I made an attempt at the NE Couloir over memorial day weekend in the same way (1day siege) and ended up turning around as well. Snow conditions were sketch and found steeper ice than I wanted to climb with a dull alpine axe and a trekking pole.

Nice place to get shut down in anyway, right?

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

Was the snow at least continuous still in the couloir, or were there any rock bands?

[pac man]

Yeah, can't complain about the view even getting shut down, that's for sure.

 

The couloir is still continuous. The only 2 tight spots can be seen in the last photo, but I would guess the rock bands are still covered with a path of snow 5-10 ft wide. These rock bands were just shy of where we bailed and were between 1/4 and a 1/3 of the way up.

[genepires]

you made a good call. Last time I was up in there a big slough came down and we were in small gulleys in the constrictions. We barely missed getting caught up in it. The snow came from sun warmed rocks which sent a small slab off. The temps weren't that warm either.

[Juan Sharp]

I climbed the route in the middle of May (May 13?) on what was one of the first warm days. Stuff was coming down all over the place but nothing significant in the gully. The trench was forming and offered the best climbing, but you have to keep an eye out. Once out on the upper face, you are home free except for some deep loose snow up high (probably consolidated now). That was my fourth time up the route (second solo) and I have never seen a significant slide come from the upper rocks, but it sounds like your decision was a good one given the recent snow followed by warm temps. You should go back and get it this weekend. It's a great spring/early summer snow climb. If the couloir is still continuous, consider leaving the rock gear at home.