[TR] Darrington - 3' Oclock Rock - Silent Running 5/23/2010

[Pilchuck71]

Trip: Darrington - 3' Oclock Rock - Silent Running

 

Date: 5/23/2010

 

Trip Report:

Smedley of the mountains and I met up last Sunday morning to head out to Darrington.

As I pulled into the Food Pavillion parking lot it was still pouring rain, which it had been since I left Bellingham.

Smedley arrived and started throwing gear in my car. I told him I would help but, I did not want to get wet.

We headed out 530 towards D-Town with, as Eddie Rabbit said "Those windshield wipers slappin' out a tempo. Keeping perfect rhythm with the song on the radio."

About a 1/4 mile or so before the 2060 my check engine light came on....wtf.....I just kept driving determined that whatever was conspiring to keep me off the rock was not going to win.

We arrived at the trailhead in the rain, although we both swore it was lighter and should stop any minute.

We shouldered packs and started walking.

The trail passed quickly and we were soon staring up the slabs of the big tree routes and running water.

A decision was made to have a breakfast beer under the trees and watch the rain drops.

We watched rain for a good 45 minutes or so and then decided to walk around the routes a bit. So we did.

An hour and a half after arriving and kicking around the idea of climbing some easy stuff under the Great Arches we decided instead to walk over to the North Buttress.

As we headed over to the North Buttress area the rain miraculously let up and we were able to look up Silent Running without raindrops falling in our eyes.

I kept pushing to do the first easy pitch of Silent Running. I was eager to get on anything just so the trip was not a waste.

Finally Smedley agreed and I started racking up to take the first pitch. While I was doing so I decided to grab some extra draws, in the case we decided to grab the second pitch while we were there. I left the ground with 6 cams and 6 draws.

The first pitch went off easily and I quickly brought smedley up to the stance.

The rain had not come back and the first pitch had enough friction in spite of the water running down the slabs so Smedley took off on the second. About 3 bolts up Smedley came to an impass and was not able to see the next bolt, this combined with the fact that he only had 3 draws left made him decided to be lowered back to the stance. I lowered him off and Smedley cleaned gear, and I decided to take the gear and have a go of it. If nothing else I would replace the draw on the third bolt with a bail biner and head down. Once I reached Smedley's high point I looked ahead and was able to see the line. I went for it and finished the pitch. I then brought Smedely up.

Upon arriving at the belay we swapped leads again and Smedley lead out on the third pitch. Again with our limited rack Smedley headed up, the slabs were still wet and Smedley took a few slips working the crux moves,and once again got to the third or fourth bolt (past the crux) and lowered and cleaned the gear. I took the gear and made the high point and continued to finish the pitch.

Smedley met me at the belay and now the slabs were drying out very quickly. Smedley headed up and dispensed with fourth pitch quickly. As Smedley brought me up I decided that I would video this pitch. I climbed the pitch with one hand holding my camera in the other and taking the most incredible video ever taken. I was excited to share this video(that is until I got home and realized I had not hit play...damn it!).

I took the fifth pitch and by now the rock was dry and all was good. Smedley and I were all smiles. When Smedley reached the belay we did a time check and considereing the rap time I had to call it a day due to obligations at home. I was bummed to have not gotten the full route as it was my first time on Silent Running but considering the way the day started I was extremely glad to get what we did. Smedley and I shared a Moose Drool at the top and began the raps.

All went well and we made good time to the ground. We enjoyed some sunshine and a quick bite to eat and then headed back to the car.

When we arrived back in Arlington there was a note on Smedleys car it read: " I saw the add for your mother $6.99 per lb. I am going for a loan on Monday. Please don't sell her till you hear from me. John Wisenhiemer 1-800-623-1429". WTF that was all about I do not know.

All in all it was a great day to be out. In spite of the rain we got some pitches in and they were quality at that.

Another great day on the rock with a great friend. Isn't that what it is all about?

Enjoy some pics:

 

That snow is awfully low -

 

Those slabs are awfully wet -

 

You just follow the water streaks -

 

Looking up Pitch 4

 

 

 

 

 

Smedley is happy to reach the top of the 5th pitch -

 

 

 

A couple of satisfied guys - Thumbs up for sun! -

 

And the rain was only one valley away the whole time -

 

The routes is dry - now that we are at the bottom -

 

Gear Notes:

I would advise a few more than six draws for this climb.

 

Approach Notes:

Easy

[genepires]

way to get after it. I find it hard to believe you haven't been on silent running yet.

 

that smedley has a super rad tuk.

[Pilchuck71]

Thanks genepires - I was pretty happy to get on it. I am a very reserved climber when it comes to grades. Twenty years climbing and I am now just pushing myself to lead 10s let alone go for 9+ in wetter conditions.

I have always focused more on the fun and trying my best not to push myself into being too uncomfortable, but after some recent effort in training both mentally and physically I am finding the confidence to go a little harder. I am having alot of fun doing it too.

Smed's tuk was handmade with love by his son (cool kid).

[mountainsloth]

solid! love that route! i too have found silent running to dry off in an hour or two.

go back for the final pitches, the last 10b is not to be missed!

[wayne]

Nice to add another to the list, thanks.

We did Dreamer on our collective 7th try while in sporadic showers. Even slabs can be done in such conditions!wow