thedirtbag Posted May 13, 2010 Posted May 13, 2010 [video:vimeo] I'm kind of a lurker here on CC. I just finished up this year and half long video project. One of the characters we followed through the course of the season was Matt Maddaloni. He designed this new piece of gear (The anti-cam) and put it to use on a death flake just right of the grand wall. Kind of intense. We went down to the wire to get it filmed. Please excuse the self promotion...I think it's just a really cool story. I keep looking for flakes at Index to use it on. fitz Quote
thedirtbag Posted May 13, 2010 Author Posted May 13, 2010 [video:vimeo]11641154 didn't load the first time...sorry. Rookie mistake. Quote
S1W Posted May 13, 2010 Posted May 13, 2010 (edited) Thanks for sharing! Maybe saw you guys up there last weekend while climbing the Grand Wall base routes? Was wondering what the orange fixed rope was doing way out there... Is that the flake that you climb past on The Sword? I never liked the sounds that thing makes and cant imagine climbing out on it... Edited May 13, 2010 by S1W Quote
thedirtbag Posted May 13, 2010 Author Posted May 13, 2010 It was filmed two weekends ago. The fixed line stayed up so we could change angles on yesterday's shoot. That footage posts tomorrow on arcteryx's website. Matt was doing mid week attempts and we tried our best to keep every one notified. I took some whippers on the anti-cam when he was testing it but there is no way you could get me out on the flake. Quote
S1W Posted May 13, 2010 Posted May 13, 2010 Dang. Bold. Cool story and video. Thanks again for sharing. Quote
Pilchuck71 Posted May 13, 2010 Posted May 13, 2010 So Fitz (or any other engineering types) - Can someone please explain the point of these? I like the look and commend the effort and ingenuity to create/build these but I do not readily see the advantage of the anti-cam over traditional camming devices. I do see some obvious disadvantages, the main one being the bulk/size of the device and as Matt himself stated in the video the bar thing sticking out and just looking for things to tangle up with. Tyson Quote
S1W Posted May 13, 2010 Posted May 13, 2010 I agree there is probably not a huge market for these things, but I'm not really looking at the story from that angle. Who knows? - maybe one day these things will be on the shelves, but I doubt it. I enjoyed the story from the angle of seeing what a really driven and obsessed climber gets up to when he is laid up with an injury. Quote
thedirtbag Posted May 13, 2010 Author Posted May 13, 2010 In this case the flake moves so much, that if you were to place a standard cam and weight the lobes would push outward, moving the flake enough that the cam would pop. Essentially to climb it with out bolting, he had to come up with this new device. WE did five total episodes on the process. Essentially, it was really scary, but he didn't want to bolt this. Matt explains it pretty in depth in the earlier videos. Quote
thedirtbag Posted May 13, 2010 Author Posted May 13, 2010 Yeah, last I heard there are no plans of marketing these things. It was just Matt's attempt to keep climbing interesting. Quote
summitchaserCJB Posted May 13, 2010 Posted May 13, 2010 Can you put a link up to the other videos? Quote
G-spotter Posted May 13, 2010 Posted May 13, 2010 paging Bill Simpkins, he had invented one of these things years ago and was keeping it hush-hush till he patented it Quote
thedirtbag Posted May 13, 2010 Author Posted May 13, 2010 (edited) [video:vimeo]9733721 This is the first installment. [video:vimeo]10092464 the second [video:vimeo]10980209 and the third. Like I said early the last one will go up on www.arcteryx.com tomorrow. So pumped this project is over. I leave for the valley on monday. Edited May 13, 2010 by thedirtbag Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 14, 2010 Posted May 14, 2010 paging Bill Simpkins, he had invented one of these things years ago and was keeping it hush-hush till he patented it I remember him talking about that. Can you remember what his name was for the device? Quote
marc_leclerc Posted May 14, 2010 Posted May 14, 2010 Sweet! I was looking forward to seeing this! It's hard to tell in the vid, but from what Matt described to me, it sounded like if the Anti-Cams blew you would get REALLY badly injured and possibly killed in a MASSIVe swing into the pillar, pretty exciting to be using newly self invented gear in a spot like that! Quote
Nitrox Posted May 15, 2010 Posted May 15, 2010 I think the long section of All-thread on the anti-cam needs to be rethought but The Season series is cool. I've been following this from day one. Quote
rob Posted May 15, 2010 Posted May 15, 2010 Oh man, what happens if the flake you've attached that thing to peels off and now you've got several thousand pounds of rock securely gripped and connected to your rope, falling with you. Quote
summitchaserCJB Posted May 15, 2010 Posted May 15, 2010 Oh man, what happens if the flake you've attached that thing to peels off and now you've got several thousand pounds of rock securely gripped and connected to your rope, falling with you. I guess you die. Quote
BirdDog Posted May 15, 2010 Posted May 15, 2010 Oh man, what happens if the flake you've attached that thing to peels off and now you've got several thousand pounds of rock securely gripped and connected to your rope, falling with you. Much safer to free solo...... Quote
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