[TR] Alpine Lakes - Outer Space 4/25/2010

[Dane]

No, on the easy aid. If you think a 5.5 chimney blows, 5.10d is going to be rude.

 

Better to get on Easter Overhang and Carnival crack and see what you think. Both are easier to get off of if you want to bail.

[BirdDog]

The part above LL is dirty and the bolts were in goofy places. The odd thing is it looks as if some of the bolts were placed at different times. Perhaps the newer ones filled existing holes but I kinda doubt it. I thought the bolts were kinda far apart on the ladder. Haven't been on it in many years so my memory could be off. I think someone should replace the bolts where you'd want them for free climbing and the route would be much improved.

 

The bolted station at the left side of LL looks pretty recent, as did the first few bolts going up and left. Maybe someone's has replaced a few.

 

Anyone have Viktor's new guide to see if he has any info on it?

[keenwesh]

dang, I guess I have to find a partner who likes hard chimneys. I want to do easter overhang but midnight is closed. is carnival the 10d offwidth up by 8 mile? is it easily toproped? I only have 1 #4 c4

[Dane]

For my money the best pitch on Iconoclast is the pitch up to Library Ledge. Fun climbing up knobs to a short handcrack. I think a couple of the knobs can be tied off, so bring some thin slings. The part above LL is dirty and the bolts were in goofy places. The odd thing is it looks as if some of the bolts were placed at different times.

 

Agreed on the quality of the shield section of Iconoclast.

 

Haven't done anything but OS above LL. But my understanding from some old conversations is the bolts were placed at different times and by differing parties while trying to make a free climb out of an old hook and aid line. The usual local Leavenworth suspects in the mid '80s. Wasn't something that interested me so my memory could well be wrong.

[Peter_Puget]

Those bolts might not be as new as you think. Over ten years for sure. Is one at the belay a glue in? The Iconoclast bolts are different.

[Peter_Puget]

Haven't done anything but OS above LL. But my understanding from some old conversations is the bolts were placed at different times and differing parties while trying to make a free climb out of an old hook and aid line. Usual local Leavenworth suspects in the mid '80s.

 

I can't resist mentioning how this is another example of Leavenworth "Traditionalism."

 

 

[BirdDog]

Those bolts might not be as new as you think. Over ten years for sure. Is one at the belay a glue in? The Iconoclast bolts are different.

 

Don't know if they were glue ins, but the cold shuts were pretty shiny. Tom S. belayed from that anchor (3rd pic in my OP), so maybe he could provide better info.

[Dane]

My apologies to the OP for the complete hijack.

 

PP, how is turning an old aid line into a free line...not traditional? Serious question not trying to be pissy.

 

Gotta remember 5.12 was pretty hard anywhere in the mid '80s.

Runout 5.11 still is if the B-Y is any example.

 

Been 25 years or more now and I still don't see those face lines on the upper left of the Shield getting done a lot. Seemed pretty heady stuff at the time compared to pushing new trad cracks @ .11+ and easy 12.

[BirdDog]

My apologies to the OP for the complete hijack.

 

PP, how is turning an old aid line into a free line...not traditional? Serious question not trying to be pissy.

 

Gotta remember 5.12 was pretty hard anywhere in the mid '80s.

Runout 5.11 still is.

 

Been 25 years or more now and I still don't see those face lines on the upper left of the Shield getting done a lot. Seemed pretty heady stuff at the time compared to pushing new trad cracks @ .11+ and easy 12.

 

No appology needed Dane. Passed an old pin at the finger traverse and though that would been tough driving that baby home while hanging on with one finger. 40 years ago 5.9 was heady stuff.

[Peter_Puget]

Dane –

 

I am just ribbing the guys who claim that there was a puritanical tradition in Leavenworth. Certainly adding bolts to an old aid pitch (where there were no cracks) to free it is not being so pure.

 

Top of Iconoclast isn't such a great climb although it could be pretty cool.

 

Edited April 27, 2010 by Peter_Puget

[keenwesh]

is edge of space done with any regularity? looks really sweet, I just can't lead 11b slab.

[Dane]

I am just ribbing the guys who claim that there was a puritanical tradition in Leavenworth.

 

More than fair. Leavenworth puritanical...not likely...ever. Simply because the climbing population has been too transient until just recently.

 

Germany, old eastern bloc, but not Leavenworth.

 

[JoshK]

Gotta remember 5.12 was pretty hard anywhere in the mid '80s.

Runout 5.11 still is if the B-Y is any example.

 

Been

 

Hey, 5.12 is pretty hard for most of us in mid 2010

[BirdDog]

is edge of space done with any regularity? looks really sweet, I just can't lead 11b slab.

 

It didn't look any of the routes except OS had had much recent traffic up them. EoS looked dirty.

[Dane]

 

BTW guys, nice work on Outer Space. Fine effort on a true classic!

[RJRiha]

dang, I guess I have to find a partner who likes hard chimneys. I want to do easter overhang but midnight is closed. is carnival the 10d offwidth up by 8 mile? is it easily toproped? I only have 1 #4 c4

 

You are correct about Carnival. I think most TR it. I imagine the rack to do it would either be expensive and bulky, or just walk a big cam up. Is a #6 even big enough for that thing?

[RJRiha]

is the pressure chamber easy to aid with smallish gear? like just french free through it? I hate offwidths/chimneys. (maybe I should do more? the final moves on the first pitch of midway really blow for example)

 

Well, do you think they blow because they are awkward, or because they are hard? Have you had a go at the 'buttlips' at Index?

[markwebster]

offwidth chimney technique is a skill that can be learned, just like any of the others: laybacking, slab&friction, steep face, etc. I've not done carnival, but it sounds like I would like it.

 

Bat crack on intersection rock in jt was my first exposure to body slot chimney technique. It's only 5.6, but it's a slick chimney. Then there is the watershute, also on intersection rock. Now that is scary, but it's just another chimney.

 

At smith, there is the bookworm, a great 'bigger than fist' crack. Lychophydophyta, also at smith, second pitch. Only gets climbed once every 10 years...by me :-)

 

Easter overhang is an awesome offwidth. Your feet cut loose and you hang from two chicken wing jams. I used to walk up a couple 4 friends.

 

Damnation at Castle is also great for offwidth. It can be made (relatively) safe with a few camalot 3 and 4's, a 5, and two big bros, sizes 2 and 3.

 

Buttlips at index, also known as pitch 3 of Lizard is lots of fun once you master chimneys. It protects with a red number 1 camalot at the crux, and some smaller cams.

 

Best secret to chimney climbing: knee pads! With knee pads, you get a no hands rest in buttlips.

 

Believe it or not, Spire Rock in Tacoma has some nice, slick offwidth cracks and chimneys for practicing your skills.

[keenwesh]

the reason that I hate the midway chimney so is that the rock is so polished right there, so smearing is not confidence inspiring, the rock on SCW doesn't gloss up nearly as much and also I bet a way smaller percentage of people have climbed the pressure chamber. still, carnival is definitely on my list next time I'm in leavenworth.

[telemarker]

Why are you smearing on the midway chimney? It's full of bucket holds and edges.

[rocketparrotlet]

is the pressure chamber easy to aid with smallish gear? like just french free through it? I hate offwidths/chimneys. (maybe I should do more? the final moves on the first pitch of midway really blow for example)

 

Well, do you think they blow because they are awkward, or because they are hard? Have you had a go at the 'buttlips' at Index?

 

That chimney blows. It's the worst thing I have ever climbed, and the only time I have ever had to pull on gear to get up. I was on toprope. Might give Midway a shot soon, but I'm not too worried about that.

[telemarker]

And big bros are total overkill for Damnation. The entitre route protects nicely with small and medium cams. In the chimney portion, when in doubt, look over your left shoulder for abundant pro opps.

[keenwesh]

at the top of midway theres a 10 foot section that you have to chimney. or at least I did, like butt against jello tower feet up on the polished wall of castle. right where that fixed pin is. it blows.

[telemarker]

at the top of midway theres a 10 foot section that you have to chimney. or at least I did, like butt against jello tower feet up on the polished wall of castle. right where that fixed pin is. it blows.

 

There are edges on the wall that you're missing then. Keep an eye out for them. I bet you're even using them as handholds without realizing they make great foot holds too.

 

MW chimney is soooo classic!

[keenwesh]

yeah, there are edges and stuff that you use to get up it, but they're all so polished, I hate polished!!!! the pitch above is sweet though. I took a friend who had never climbed a multi pitch trad route before up it and he really enjoyed it. hopefully he'll buy a rack, after all, he works at a gear shop, and is there any other reason to do that?