Yosemite tick list for 2 day trip

[summitchaserCJB]

My brother and I are going to be down near Yosemite in May and we have two days tentatively free and want to tick off some classics. Some background. We are solid trad leaders, even though my bro has gotten a little soft since getting married. I can lead trad up to 5.10b or so. He could probably follow that as well if he had to. We are looking for multipitch and single pitch trad lines mainly. We'd prefer to summit something but we're trying to be realistic as well. Any ideas? PS- I've never climbed at Yosemite so I have no idea whats realistic/worthwhile.

Edited March 30, 2010 by summitchaserCJB

[summitchaserCJB]

After looking around I found Royal Arches, Snake Dike, and Central Pillar of Frenzy.

[BlackRock]

So much to climb and so little time. I'd probably focus on anything that is really easy access. There are lots of crags like Church Bowl where you can hammer out a pitch or two if your plans fall apart like Bishops Terrace which is an amazing long pitch of 5.8 handcrack, but cragging doesn't do Yosemite justice.

 

Manure Pile Buttress has no approach and two super classics:

-Nut Cracker 5.8 5p

-After Six 5.7 6p

 

Descent is a quick 20 minute hike back to the parking lot.

 

Then there is the Five Open Books cliff near the falls and Camp IV which also has no approach and a good number of super classic fun routes.

-Commitment

-The Surprise

-Munginella

 

You can easily walk back to the base and go for another 3-4 pitch route or you can hit Selaginella on the second tier for a 6-8 pitch day. All the routes are 5.6 to 5.9 or 10- and four stars. Selaginella is actually a pretty nice interesting route too.

 

Then you've got Central Pillar of Frenzy which is a real classic 5 pitch 5.9 handcrack which is an easy approach and a simply rap back off the Middle Cathedral.

 

There is also Super Slide which is 'ok' but listed as a super classic 5.8/9 that is really close and of course if you are feeling up to it Sons of Yesterday and Serenity Crack is a must do but clocks in at a pretty solid 5.10.

 

There are so many routes up there it's hard to list them all. There are lots of bigger routes or others that are a bit further off the trail, but if you don't necessarily have two full days and just want to get a bunch of pitches then I think I've ticked off most of the super easy access classics I can think of. PM if you'd like, I'm sure I have more rattling around.

[summitchaserCJB]

Thanks for the info. That central pillar sounds like a lot of fun. My brother wanted to do a one day trip but I talked him up to two.

[Wallstein]

Regular route on Higher Cathedral Spire. One of the best summits in Yosemite.

 

Arrowhead arete is also very spectacular.

[RuMR]

braille book

steck salathe

[RuMR]

also,

 

the cragging on El Cap is pretty good...

 

little john l or r

moby dick

sacher cracker

even the first pitch of the salathe

[RuMR]

oh...and reeds is great...also lunatic fringe...

 

man, i wanna go!!!

[Crillz]

If I were you. In this order:

 

Nutcracker

Reed's Direct

Central Pillar of Frenzy

Serenity Crack to Sons of Yesterday

 

 

[summitchaserCJB]

funny this thread is resurrected right when I got back from Yosemite. Here is the TR - blog

[Crillz]

How long did Royal Arches take you?

Which way did you descend?

[summitchaserCJB]

We got a minor rope problem after the pendulum and weren't trying to go fast at all but we ascended in 7.5 hours and rappelled the route in probably 1.5 hours.