Rocky Butte: Bring protection

[billcoe]

the Soloist is for LEAD CLIMB soloing.

The Soloist works great for toproping laps Steve. Need a chest harness they say, and that is a little screwy though. I'd choose another device for leading, as this one won't lock if the fall is inverted. I've taken an inverted lead fall (not with a Solist thank God), and it's not something you can plan well -it just happens.

 

Soloist.

[stevetimetravlr]

The Soloist scares me. It is so easy to slip or bust a hold and as you go down your foot slides behind the rope and you get flipped over backwards and end up hanging upside down looking at the ground. I have had it happen a few times to me and never did I think it was going to happen until it did as always try to keep my feet clear of the rope. If you had a soloist, you wouldn't be looking at the ground, you'd be on it. Silent Partner rocks!

That said, I have never used a Soloist for top roping. With the mini Trax, I don't use a chest harness, I just take a double length runner and cross it and then put both arms thru it and put it over my head behind my back and then clip it in front, works awesome for clipping your belay device to keep it feeding well when soloing.

[billcoe]

That said, I have never used a Soloist for top roping. With the mini Trax, I don't use a chest harness, I just take a double length runner and cross it and then put both arms thru it and put it over my head behind my back and then clip it in front, works awesome for clipping your belay device to keep it feeding well when soloing.

 

Wouldn't that be called a homemade chest harness?

[letsroll]

That said, I have never used a Soloist for top roping. With the mini Trax, I don't use a chest harness, I just take a double length runner and cross it and then put both arms thru it and put it over my head behind my back and then clip it in front, works awesome for clipping your belay device to keep it feeding well when soloing.

 

Wouldn't that be called a homemade chest harness?

 

Billie on the spot...lol

[Kletterhund]

http://www.tuolumnemeadows.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=103&g2_serialNumber=1

 

Perhaps a homemade midriff harness then...

[Dirtbag Packwork]

That said, I have never used a Soloist for top roping. With the mini Trax, I don't use a chest harness, I just take a double length runner and cross it and then put both arms thru it and put it over my head behind my back and then clip it in front, works awesome for clipping your belay device to keep it feeding well when soloing.

 

Wouldn't that be called a homemade chest harness?

 

That's how I roll.

[billcoe]

That's how I roll.

 

It's a real, real nice thing to know how to do. I was leading the overhanging east face of monkey and Bob pulled one of my nuts on the traverse right while following it (clip climbing, not jugging). He had on lots of gear and a pack all of which was pulling him over and near upside down. Trying to just stay upright was/is very very difficult, while putting on a temp. chest harness/biner as described will immediacy fix that for ya. 2 shoulder length slings just girth together is the right size and works great as well as a doubled runner in case anyone is reading this who is unfamiliar with this thing.

[pac man]

I have a Silent Partner and like it on lead. However be careful with new ropes that have slick finishes. I nearly used the SP on a new rope but couldn't get it to catch at all just prior to starting the lead, no matter how fast I pulled the rope out (definitely set up properly). It may have caught during a fall, but I wasn't going to take that chance. Anyway, I would never use it in a situation where the rope could get icy. The manufacturer also says something about not using it in icy or muddy conditions due to possibly hindering the mechanism that locks the spinning drum.

[layton]

I had the same experience with a new rope so I used it as my main rope for ~2 weeks and then it worked fine.

 

I used a Petzl Shunt for TRing on ice and it worked awesome, but I believe it's not made anymore (why? is it sketchy?)