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Posted

Note: I do not plan on doing the Nisq. Ice Fall this year, but am asking for advise for someone else.

 

He wants to do it with one ice axe and one ice tool, is that enough or is it better to have two ice tools? Just thought someone here might know whats best for this route.

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Posted

Given that my std axe is a 60 cm and my ice tools are 50 cm if I think that I am going to need a second tool I would just take my ice tools so that when needed I can move fast. That said given the amount of low angle glacier travel I would bring skis poles as one can move pretty fast doing axe-pole shuffle.

Posted

I don't know that route but that is a good combination for glacier routes in general since they require lots of switching between both vertical and near horizontal work. I have used an axe and a tool together on near vertical several times. Swing the axe with the stronger arm.

 

Your partner can carry the same combination and if you get in a pinch the leader can take both of the tools.

Posted
He wants to do it with one ice axe and one ice tool, is that enough or is it better to have two ice tools? Just thought someone here might know whats best for this route.

 

One ice tool + one ice axe were sufficient in mid-winter about 15 years ago. The icefall seems to have gotten a little more broken over the years but it's hard to tell whether it requires any steeper climbing than it used to.

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