Dane Posted February 25, 2010 Posted February 25, 2010 Just a few quick pics of conditions in Canada at the moment. It is a bit dry in many places. But fat and happy typically on water ice facing north or in the shade most of the day. A few folks here headed up shortly so thought the pictures might be helpful. TRs on the couple of climbs we actually did get up when I get some time at home. Not blindingly fast, but a good effort for me, was a 5:27 run up Polar Circus including the approach pitches. That was from the car to the top set of rap chains for those that keep track of such things. Matt Kidd was forced to whip me along the entire way ;-) Great fun and mostly stellar conditions the entire trip! The ice samari and endurance task master, Matt Kidd, having way too much fun on Professors! You know you want some! Temps ranged between -20C at Rampart to -30C in the Ice Fields to 50F degrees on Weeping Wall all in one day! Better go get it before it all falls down! Professors Carlsberg Column Pilsner Pillar Polar Circus (with 3 French @ the base of the Ribboin pitch) Trophy Wall N Face of Temple N. Face of Kitchener Shooting Gallery/Astroid Alley and A-Strain A-Strain Curtain Call And me, way stoked after hiking PC once again, 29 years and a few months after my first trip up it in 1981! Quote
trainwreck Posted February 25, 2010 Posted February 25, 2010 It has been a good season up this way. South facing stuff has been pounded by sun the last few weeks but the alpine is shaping up nicely. Did you get on Curtain Call? It's in excellent shape atm, probably the best of all the parkway climbs. Quote
powderhound Posted February 25, 2010 Posted February 25, 2010 looks like the A- Strain is in...heard any reports of it or the GCC getting climbed? Quote
trainwreck Posted February 25, 2010 Posted February 25, 2010 Haven't heard of anyone on either but also haven't been down the parkway in a week. Most people are starting to think alpine though and everyone is waiting for someone else to head out first. Such is Rockies climbing! Quote
Dane Posted February 25, 2010 Author Posted February 25, 2010 I heard guys guys have been up Astroid Alley and Shooting Gallery, at least one party tried GGC and a couple of ascents of Slipstream. Off the beaten path and out of the wind blown it is pretty deep trail breaking in places. Little avi issues though but not as much ice up high in the alpine as I expected. Get the properties links off the pictures and look at the full size ones in my gallery and you get an idea of what we saw. Grant? CC , in excellent shape? Ya, like 2 grades harder than last March! Love it when the locals, climbing hard 6s, start calling everything 4+ Quote
trainwreck Posted February 26, 2010 Posted February 26, 2010 I heard guys guys have been up Astroid Alley and Shooting Gallery, at least one party tried GGC and a couple of ascents of Slipstream. Off the beaten path and out of the wind blown it is pretty deep trail breaking in places. My ropegun walked to base of Slipstream the other day and said that it looks excellent. We've been thinking of Asteroid Alley/A-Strain as well, but haven't heard of anyone out that way from our end of the parkway. Didn't hear about anyone on GCC either but am pretty unsurprised that it's been attempted as the weather has been excellent. Grant? CC , in excellent shape? Ya, like 2 grades harder than last March! Love it when the locals, climbing hard 6s, start calling everything 4+ It is in excellent shape! It hasn't been affected by the warm temps or the sun and the pro is excellent and plentiful. Lots of good rests for the feet with engaging little cruxes. I will admit that we've been on it a lot this year so I feel pretty comfortable with most of the moves by now, but it is getting easier with traffic. The first time I lead the first real pitch it took over 2.5 hours and I bypassed the large overhang by traversing left! Last time we were there I did the overhang, it's definitely WI6 as it comes at ~45m mark. The second pitch is WI5 though, it's a fair bit shorter with a few overhanging bits, but great rests and great gear. Ice nine OTOH......scary. I am glad it collapsed because I shouldn't have climbed it once, let alone go back and try to link both pitches. Quote
fultonville Posted February 26, 2010 Posted February 26, 2010 Crap. Sitting in a coffee shop in Cardiff Wales listening to the weakass Welsh and French talk up the big rugby match tonight but would trade them all for a chance to be swinging tools in shitty ice any day. Hope there's some of that left the end of March batman... Quote
dbb Posted February 27, 2010 Posted February 27, 2010 Attempted the astrain the other day. Got off route on the traverse and burned too much time. The approach pitches were pretty boney with unconsolidated sugar, but the rest of the route looks to be in good shape. Quote
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