Chimacum Rock (aka Tamanous Rock or Big Rock)

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Calling all Chimacum/Port Townsend rock climbers! Changes are coming to Tamanous Rock!

 

Yes, it's a choss pile, but I know a few folks still climb there and that it's the only rock anywhere near Port Townsend or Chimacum so I wanted to share this pending access issue in case any of you would like to be involved.

 

This last December the land surrounding and including the rock was purchased by the Jefferson Land Trust in coordination with the Jamestown S'klallam Tribe, and Anderson Lake State Park (managed by Ft. Flagler). The land, previously owned by George Heidigerken, was a development investment and climbing/hiking/dirk biking, etc was at least passively allowed. I have been visiting the rock for at least 20 years.

 

With this recent purchase the land will now be transferred from the Jefferson Land Trust in a couple of years when the loan is paid off to either the Tribe (most likely) or the State Park. The Tribe views this as a sacred/spiritual site and appears to be likely to close access to the rock itself and remove permanent anchors. The State Park has no money and no experience managing climbing issues either.

 

I have been in contact with Owen Fairbank and Sarah Spaeth at the Jefferson Land Trust who I know through work. Few decisions have been made as to the final disposition of the land, wording of a conservation easement should the land remain private, management plans, etc, so now is the time to get constructively involved.

 

I now live in Seattle and only climb at the Rock a few times a year. I would like to know if there is interest from others in trying to maintain access, and if anyone is more local who might be ale to attend relevant meetings to represent climbers, etc. I have many fond memories of learning to climb there and would like to continue to do so. I'm guessing there are more of us out there who feel the same?

 

Background for those of you who have no idea what I'm talking about: Tamanous Rock is located off of Anderson Lake Rd. near the SKP trailer park. There are about 10 bolted routes, half of which are two pitches, ranging from 5.6 to a few overhanging 5.11-12? routes. There are a couple of sketchy trad/aid lines as well. There is also a cable route up the backside used by all sorts of folks to reach the top.

 

You can post up here or contact me at stewartmatthiesen (at) hotmail. or 360-379-9421. I'll try to post this notice eleswhere and would appreciate any help from anyone involved with WCC or the Access Fund as well.

[Macson]

Thanks for the heads up Stewart. I'll pass the word around to the folks I know. I saw that the transfer was happening in the paper, and I wondered at the time whether the tribe would end up with it or not. I imagine that will spell the end for any climbing on the rock.

[Sherri]

A little OT, but has anyone noticed the rock ridge alongside Eaglemount Rd which has been exposed by recent logging? Could be some potential there if access is kosher. Easy to spot from the road.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Thanks John. I'm trying to be optimistic and think of it as a potential opportunity to secure climbing access for the long term. I know that it may be a losing battle, but it's worth at least getting our voices heard. Perhaps something could be worked out with a new anchor ban and some clean up? Has anyone though of painting some of the shiny hangers to make them blend in more. I know some folks just think it's an eyesore to see a line of shiny bolts in the overhanging amphitheater area when they have drum circles around the fire pit. Out of sight out of mind maybe, or at least lower on the priority list to pull out? Anyone want to help?

 

Sherri, I'm up for checking things out if anyone is interested. I haven't driven by Eaglemount for a while, but I'm out in PT once a month (next week actually). I'll try to drive by there.

[Sherri]

I haven't driven by Eaglemount for a while, but I'm out in PT once a month (next week actually). I'll try to drive by there.

 

Once you turn onto Eaglemount from Hwy 20, it's about a half mile down the road, just past Grouse Lane on the left.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Thanks, I drove by that cliff on Eaglemount. It might be worth a route or two if we loose Tamanous Rock, although not of the cool multipitch variety we currently have. I didn't have time to get out of the car though. Anyone have any idea who owns it?

 

No new work from the Jefferson Land Trust. I've offered some easement language from the Access Fund and my professional grant writing skills to assist the State Park in raising funds. It sounds like it's too early for them, or not a priority, probably some of both. Additional local input to them would be great.

[Sherri]

Thanks, I drove by that cliff on Eaglemount. It might be worth a route or two if we loose Tamanous Rock, although not of the cool multipitch variety we currently have. I didn't have time to get out of the car though. Anyone have any idea who owns it?

 

I have no idea who owns it. I've only seen it from the car, too. Looks like there could be an interesting OW, crack system tucked on the far right side.

[chris]

Have you contacted the Washington Climbers Coalition for assistance?

[OlympicMtnBoy]

I have been in touch with the Access Fund, and cc'd the WCC. I haven't heard from a ton of local folks though. Here is the recent update I got from Owen at the Jefferson Land Trust:

 

Hi Stewart-

A bit slow getting to you because I was away for a couple of weeks, but during the time that I was gone, Erik, State Parks, Northwest Watershed Institute, and several representatives from the Jamestown S'Klallam Tribe met at Tamanous Rock to discuss long- and short-term management.

Also this last weekend several tribes (Port Gamble S'Klallam, Jamestown S'Klallam, and Suquamish) held a ceremony celebrating the acquisition of the Rock and included and some of the major contributors to the Land Trust's Tamanous Fund. The significance of this spiritual site to the tribes for centuries was very clear, and very moving.

 

At the management meeting, the Jamestown folks spoke of their desire to limit trails to one "through" trail, and have it in a location that is out of sight of the Rock. There was also discussion of climbing, and it appears that the best solution may be to seek an alternate site within Anderson Lake State Park. Perhaps you know more about the possibilities there?

This is how Erik summarized the Tribe's views on climbing:

 Tribe considers rock climbing on the rock to be disrespectful, and an inappropriate use of a sanctuary

 Tribe considers hardware in the rock particularly disrespectful

 Whether or not to allow climbing in the long-term management of the rock will be a decision of the Tribal Council

 It is clear that further discussions will be had before a final determination on this issue is made

 Since there appears to be a sister rock inside the Park, the suggestion was made to explore its use for rock climbing purposes to take the pressure off Tamanowas Rock for such activities; this would likely require a special arrangement with State Parks which has allowed such activities in one other park in the State.

Your offer of help with cleanup and upkeep is appreciated. This coming week, during school's spring break, at least two tribes are bringing Tribal students out to start removing graffiti and cleaning up trash, so we'll see what they get done first.

 

Thus while nothing has been decided and discussion will continue, the likelihood of the Tribe allowing climbing seems small. I'm sorry if this is discouraging news, but I feel it is important to respect the wishes of the native people who have been here so much longer than all of us, and also to work to understand the nature and depth of their connection with this remarkable place.

regards,

Owen

 

[OlympicMtnBoy]

FYI, the Peninsula Daily News is looking to do a story this Sunday and talk about the climbing and some of the issues around the Rock. They are looking for someone to give a quick tour of the rock and the climbing there. They might take some pictures too. Unfortunately I just came back to Seattle after several days out there. Anyone available to give a tour? It’s a great opportunity to get our voices heard as a user group and put a positive face on climbers as respectful and invested in protection, preservation, and continued use of the rock by all the groups who feel connected with it.

 

Let me know if you are available some time in the next couple days and I'll put you in touch.

- Stewart

360-301-2585

[OlympicMtnBoy]

A few updates:

 

Martin was kind enough to take a reporter up to the top of the rock and there was a decent article in the Peninsula Daily News: http://www.peninsuladailynews.com/article/20100418/NEWS/304189991

 

Also here is an excerpt on the property from the WA Parks and Recreation Commission meeting on March 11th:

 

"The Tribe indicates that public uses would not include climbing on the Rock in order to respect the sacred nature of the property. Trails leading to the top on the eastern side would be removed. Trails crossing north-south through the property would be open to pedestrian uses."

 

"The existence of rock climbing on the site fails to respect the cultural significance of the site. Ending the practice could require a variety of management measures, potentially including: signage, fencing, removing pitons currently located on the Rock, educating users and issuing citations to parties who ignore rules"

 

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Full text:

 

 

Tamanowas Rock

 

Tamanowas Rock (the Rock) is a unique geological formation; its age, estimated at 43 million years, is far older than the surrounding area. Native American beliefs are that this is the site where people gathered during a flood that covered the earth. When the waters receded the property became a sacred site to the tribes. Members of local tribes still consider the site as sacred. In 1976 the site was added to the Washington Heritage Register due to its archaeological attributes. Notwithstanding its cultural significance and private ownership, the Rock is a popular destination for local rock climbers. The western side offers challenging routes and over time climbers have placed pitons in the rock for security.

 

Adjoining Property

 

The CAMP long-term boundary for Anderson Lake State Park includes three parcels abutting the eastern edge of the park. From south to north on the attached map, they are known as the Nicholson Short Plat (owned by the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe (Tribe)), the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe Conservation property (owned by the Tribe) and the Tamanowas Rock property (recently sold by Mr. Heidgerken to an entity of the Jefferson Land Trust).

 

Some of the trails that originate in Anderson Lake State Park continue as unofficial social trails onto the adjoining private property. Trails in the park are open to cyclists and equestrian riders in addition to pedestrians.

 

Nicholson Short Plat

 

In 2005, the Jamestown S’Klallam Tribe, with assistance from the community, purchased the Nicholson property. The Tribe feared that the previous owner intended to sub-divide and sell the property. The proposed development threatened the site with nearby development, a road to the proximity of Tamanous Rock and excessive visitation to the Rock.

 

The Nicholson property consists of 66 acres; a 2005 appraisal put the value of the site at $390,000, but a more recent appraisal has set the value at $275,000. It is currently for sale by the Tribe, but only to a party which would be willing to place a conservation easement limiting its development.

 

Jamestown S’Klallam Conservation Property

 

At the time the Tribe purchased the Nicholson Short Plat, it also purchased an adjoining 20 acre parcel now known as the Jamestown S’Klallam Conservation property. In 2006, the Tribe applied for and received a grant of approximately $67,000 to fund a conservation easement it granted to the Jefferson Land Trust on this property.

 

Jefferson Land Trust (Heidgerken) Property

 

Mr. Heidgerken previously owned the 62 acre property that includes Tamanowas Rock. He recently offered the property for sale, with an initial asking price of $1.2 million. The Tribe and Jefferson Land Trust (JLT) approached State Parks about an interest in the acquisition, given the park’s long-term boundary and previous interest in the property (in the late 1990’s Parks approached Mr. Heidgerken but was unable to reach an agreement on the price). After an appraisal identified the value of the property as $600,000, Mr. Heidgerken accepted that price. At that time the JLT and Tribe obtained a loan from the Bullitt Foundation to acquire the land. The terms of the loan from the Bullitt Foundation require repayment within two years. A real estate subsidiary of the JLT now owns the property and the Tribe has a two-year option to purchase it from the JLT.

 

Future Ownership, Management Options and Issues

 

The Jamestown S'Klallam Tribe made an initial proposal in which it would exercise its option to acquire the JLT (former Heidgerken) property from the Jefferson Land Trust entity within two years of the initial acquisition date. One proposal is that the existing 20 acre Jamestown S'Klallam Tribe Conservation Property and all or some part of the JLT property would be combined into a 40-80 acre sanctuary. This property might eventually be put into an application to the Bureau of Indian Affairs to be placed into federal trust status. The balance of the JLT property and the Nicholson property are then proposed to become part of Anderson Lake State Park pending Commission approval and available acquisition funding. Were the property to not become part of Anderson Lake State Park it would remain in JLT or Tribal ownership.

 

Management of the 40-80 acre Tamanowas Rock Sanctuary would occur via a consortium. An interlocal agreement, between the tribes and other entities is proposed to be developed to cover mutual management issues and achieve cost savings where possible.

 

The Tribe indicates that public uses would not include climbing on the Rock in order to respect the sacred nature of the property. Trails leading to the top on the eastern side would be removed. Trails crossing north-south through the property would be open to pedestrian uses. The management plan proposed by the Tribe for the states:

 

* Allowed Uses: access for quiet use and enjoyment; scientific and educational purposes; restoration of wetlands and other habitat values; sacred ceremonies; maintenance of simple, dirt trails according to a trail plan; general public access according to a public access plan; and sustainable harvesting of non-timber forest products, including bark from living cedar trees.

* Prohibited Uses: subdivision of land; hunting; horseback riding and pets; building or development; mining and removal of soil, peat, rock and gravel; use of herbicides and pesticides, except when subject to a restoration plan; introduction of non-native plants, lawns and animal species; damming, diking, dredging, manipulation of water courses except when subject to a restoration plan; harvest of all standing timber (live and snag) except to enhance wildlife habitat and forest health, control fires, remove hazard trees, and then subject to a management plan; dumping and storage of waste, materials and equipment; storage of motorized vehicles; agriculture and livestock grazing; campgrounds, sports activities, motorized vehicles; discharge of firearms; and access roads through the property.

 

 

 

Managing activities within the Rock area:

 

The existence of rock climbing on the site fails to respect the cultural significance of the site. Ending the practice could require a variety of management measures, potentially including: signage, fencing, removing pitons currently located on the Rock, educating users and issuing citations to parties who ignore rules. If JLT or the Tribe owned the site, the enforcement actions, when education and signage fails would be the responsibility of the Country Sheriff. If owned by State Parks, parks staff would accept responsibility to develop and enforce regulations. This may not be effective as the park has no on-site staffing.

 

POLICY QUESTIONS FOR CONSIDERATION:

 

1. Does State Parks want to own or manage any portion of the property east of the current park boundary?

2. Is there a State Parks interest in acquiring some or all of the Nicholson Short Plat?

3. Should staff explore transferring any part of its ownership or management of Anderson Lake State Park to Jefferson County, JLT, or the Jamestown S’Klallam?

 

 

Author/Contact(s): Bill Koss, Manager, Planning and Research

 

bill.koss@parks.wa.gov 360-902-8629