Summer ice routes?

[kheegan]

I'm planning a trip to WA this summer, and would like to get on some longish ice routes (AI3 or thereabouts) if possible. Right now I'm considering Baker NR and Kautz, but ideally I'm looking for routes with a similar level of difficulty and length as the NW ice couloir on Middle Teton.

 

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

[genepires]

If I remember right (and it was a long time ago) the NW couloir on the middle teton wasn't that bad. Seems like it was wi2 for a short bit or you could walk around and then cruise of via the snow gulley. Not sure if you are preparing for that or using that as a reference for routes over here.

If using the middle as a reference for over here, then the n ridge of baker is going to be a bigger and harder trip. More serious glacier travel, longer steep snow, more commitment value but with same amount of ice climbing probably. If you are looking for things similair to the middle then Mt Maude would be a good one.

[kinnikinnick]

the kautz glacier route is probably AI 2, the amount of ice increasing into summer. other quality AI routes: the northeast face of redoubt, northeast face of fury, adams glacier on mt adams, northwest face of forbidden, the north face of mt buckner, the north face of shuksan, coleman headwall on baker. but most of these routes aren't AI 3. steeper alpine ice is found mostly in the winter/spring months in the cascades.

[ivan]

fuck the volcanoes - or the real-deal n cascade steep summer snow/ice experience, the ne face of redoubt's gotta be da ticket

[kheegan]

If I remember right (and it was a long time ago) the NW couloir on the middle teton wasn't that bad. Seems like it was wi2 for a short bit or you could walk around and then cruise of via the snow gulley. Not sure if you are preparing for that or using that as a reference for routes over here.

If using the middle as a reference for over here, then the n ridge of baker is going to be a bigger and harder trip. More serious glacier travel, longer steep snow, more commitment value but with same amount of ice climbing probably. If you are looking for things similair to the middle then Mt Maude would be a good one.

 

I mentioned the M Teton couloir because it's something I had done before (as a second) and it's at a level I'd feel comfortable leading. In the conditions I climbed it was definitely a solid AI3 at 60-70 degrees for a couple of pitches and even some mixed action when the ice narrowed to shoulder width .

 

Thanks for the suggestions... I'd have to look them up. I've been using Nelson/Potterfield as a reference, but I guess I'll have to dig up the Beckey guidebooks for those routes.

[genepires]

Cool. Get ready for some big days as some of those routes mentioned are way back in there. (redoubt, fury and buckner)

 

For easier access and IMO better alpine ice, look up Mt Matier in the coast range book. British columbia stuff and just a couple hours north of vancouver. For that matter, go to Banff park in alberta for really good alpine ice. Athabasca, adromeda (both are day trips) and mt Fay (with a hut nearby) are really good. You could throw in some good alpine rock days and some craggin in for some good ole varied fun.

 

I don't know what AI rating really mean. What is the difference between ai2 and ai3. I got a feel that ai4 is really scary and ai5 is a...well we don't need to go there.