How we deal with errant bolting...

[el jefe]

thus spake billcoe. if joseph is the king of beacon, then billcoe is surely the queen.

[j_b]

Wow Jake, where is that image from?

[el jefe]

that's raindawg's latest tool for unearthing ancient artifacts.

[pink]

bolts aren't okay at beacon but gluing the 5.6 gumby route back together is not just permissible but also necessary.

 

even joseph's ethics are infinitely malleable when there's something he wants.

 

where can i get the BETA on that? beacon rock update thread isn't showing it...

[pink]

I'll admit, those anchor moves are damn tricky.

 

your thread is full of BETA... i'm sure u have your own definition of BETA. can i have your definition of BETA? in two sentences or less please... thank you and merry holidays.

[JosephH]

...even joseph's ethics are infinitely malleable when there's something he wants.

Dude, you need to work on your reading comprehension. As I said repeatedly at the time,

it had nothing whatsoever to do with what I personally wanted. If it were up to me I would

have trundled it.

[el jefe]

pink is uncharacteristically interested in finding out the facts of the case, much to the astonishment of all who regularly visit this website.

[JosephH]

your thread is full of BETA...

The only beta in 'my thread' is about an anchor location which

isn't obvious. Other than that, folks are on their own if they

head up it.

[pink]

...even joseph's ethics are infinitely malleable when there's something he wants.

Dude, you need to work on your reading comprehension. As I said repeatedly at the time,

it had nothing whatsoever to do with what I personally wanted. If it were up to me I would

have trundled it.

 

so there was a gun held 2 ur head gangsta? joseph!!!!! i demand u to jump off of a bridge right now !

[JosephH]

If the header had the true topic like

Norwegian Trundle and been on the climbers board forum It would

have got more attention and climbers would have been more accepting,

after all we all like a good trundle ,it's like kinda primal.

If my intent were to have a 'true topic' that might be the case.

As is, I could give a rip how 'accepting' anyone is about it.

[pink]

your thread is full of BETA...

The only beta in 'my thread' is about an anchor location which

isn't obvious. Other than that, folks are on their own if they

head up it.

 

did the pioneers who put up the routes have that info... i bet i could climb almost everything out there with a fixed anchor. what's ur def. of BETA? whats ur defintion of BETA for rockclimbing?

 

WHAT IS YOUR DEFINTION OF ROCKCLIMBING? I HAVE NO PROBLEM WITH BETA? IT HAPPENS!!!!

[JosephH]

so there was a gun held 2 ur head gangsta? joseph!!!!!

i demand u to jump off of a bridge right now !

Nope, just honoring Opdycke's request. I told him the status of the hold

and asked him to sort out with folks what he and they wanted done - glued

or trundled - the word I got back was fix if possible. It was. I did. I

didn't make the call as I don't care - I can get up the pitch just fine

either way.

[pink]

SO WHEN YOUR BUDDIES ASK U TO STAY FOR ANOTHER BEER AT THE BAR DO U TELL THEM I HAVE TO GO HOME TO MY WIFE OR DO U TELL THEM I WANT TO GO HOME TO MY WIFE??? so opdyke is the ass of the party? or do u just follow instructions like a good little socialist?

[JosephH]

did the pioneers who put up the routes have that info...

i bet i could climb almost everything out there with a fixed anchor.

what's ur def. of BETA? whats ur defintion of BETA for rockclimbing?

 

WHAT IS YOUR DEFINTION OF ROCKCLIMBING?

I HAVE NO PROBLEM WITH BETA? IT HAPPENS!!!!

No, neither did I when I put it up. But then the culture at Beacon

is fairly anchor and beta dependent, particulary with regards to

anchors. Given there is some natural confusion of the pitching on

Menopause due to the fact it's an extension of 'Rythmn Method', but

doesn't use its anchor, I provided beta on the first anchor location.

 

I don't typically want beta on any aspect of a climb I'm going to do

other than where it is and perhaps what the descent looks like.

[JosephH]

SO WHEN YOUR BUDDIES ASK U TO STAY FOR ANOTHER BEER AT THE BAR

DO U TELL THEM I HAVE TO GO HOME TO MY WIFE OR DO U TELL THEM I WANT TO GO

HOME TO MY WIFE??? so opdyke is the ass of the party? or do u just follow

instructions like a good little socialist?

I left the decision with them, I was and am completely agnostic

on which way it went - it had nothing to do with anyone telling

anyone what to do.

[pink]

so u like beta too... coool i do 2 if it equals me more pitches and a barstool at the bar. my point being a "pink" point is that we all like. u proly don't need beta on beacon or how to get down and hans florine needs 0 beta on el cap-yada yada yada.... beta just saves u a little time and most climbers gather data before they do FA's for the most part. it's either data, beta, required knowledge... who cares. i wasn't born with a figure-8 on my umbilical so i'm down with a road map to save a little time, but i think ur BA for not needing a map to get where ur going

[pink]

SO WHEN YOUR BUDDIES ASK U TO STAY FOR ANOTHER BEER AT THE BAR

DO U TELL THEM I HAVE TO GO HOME TO MY WIFE OR DO U TELL THEM I WANT TO GO

HOME TO MY WIFE??? so opdyke is the ass of the party? or do u just follow

instructions like a good little socialist?

I left the decision with them, I was and am completely agnostic

on which way it went - it had nothing to do with anyone telling

anyone what to do.

 

 

so u were the sniper? now that's a kick ass job...

[JosephH]

... so i'm down with a road map to save a little time

Beta on an area, beta on logistics of getting to and from the climbing,

but beta on the climbs - I'll pass. Why? Being clueless eyeballing rock

is the best part of it. No beta on FA's.

 

Like chalk, it's just another crutch and addiction.

[pink]

well isn't climbing sort of a crutch in itself? nothing like cranking down on some sick rated "r" gear lead after some slut dumps u for some other climber that cranks a little bit harder than U do but fills out the lycra a lot better than U do and U decide to buy a pair of jeans and a head band and go on a sick solo circutt instead

Edited December 23, 2009 by pink

[chirp]

[pink]

eye did knot... Edited December 23, 2009 by pink

[denalidave]

bolts aren't okay at beacon but gluing the 5.6 gumby route back together is not just permissible but also necessary.

 

even joseph's ethics are infinitely malleable when there's something he wants.

 

where can i get the BETA on that? beacon rock update thread isn't showing it...

Call Jimmy O. he's got boxes and boxes of BETA, even a BETA player, too.

[Raindawg]

that's raindawg's latest tool for unearthing ancient artifacts.

 

Hey Jack-Donkey "El-Jefe" nicht:

 

What's your amazing real-life profession?

C'mon! Fess up so we can inappropriately ridicule it on a climbing web-site.

What do you do for a living, eh big shot?

What's that??? Embarrassed?

Sit down, little, little man.

 

[el jefe]

you know you've struck a soft spot when brainfog calls you "little man".

 

i'm an emergency room and intensive care rn. i help take care of sick and injured people.

 

if you weren't ashamed of your work then you'd be able to get the joke.

[richard_noggin]

This sure wound up in spray quick?!

 

 

It would appear at this time it was a timely move.

 

 

And now we can have some Ego posturing heated discussion that that we all can Oh Yeah!!! lets not forget the pictures Of enema bags, clowns, care/scar bears and MR T that make this such a quality site.

In spray where such topics and posters belong we can be taken in a different context that can be quite hilarious, Hey a poster with the screen name of :wave:Dick Head belongs in spray with the rest of the unruly